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New York Fashion Week: gothic glitz from Marc Jacobs

New York Fashion Week drew to a close last night before London takes centre stage from today (February 20).

With the enviable task of closing New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs always stands out for marching to the beat of his own drum. Last autumn we had calm and pale minimalism and for spring there were austere military uniforms. This season was an ode to legendary American fashion editor Diana Vreeland and her quirky, maximalist approach to fashion.

This translated into a plethora of looks that covered everything from simple shift dresses through to fun fur coats and glittering alternative red carpet gowns. It balanced a certain kinkiness (elbow length leather gloves, patent boots, tightly belted waists and plenty of sheer) with the label’s signature strangeness (mismatched fabrics, unusual layering and odd silhouettes like mutton-sleeves on coats).

There was a darkness to many of the looks, tapping into the gothic vibe of the week, but this was contrasted by Jacobs’ mix and match approach to glitz and glamour, sprinkling everything he could with jewels, embroidery and embellishment. There were beaded stripes on simple sheath dresses, twinkling floor length A-line pleated skirts and outerwear daubed with decoration, panelled coats featuring leopard print and shimmering metallic brocade through to tweed-like houndstooth twinsets that were in fact densely patterned sequins.

No other designer would have put these things together in one collection, let alone one outfit. And no other designer could have done so in such a way, making many of these clothes so covetable. Expect another Marc Jacobs winner come autumn 15.

We now turn our attentions to London Fashion Week – keep up to date with live updates online and via social media from Drapers.

@graeme_moran

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