Highlights from the latest New York Fashion Week shows, including Oscar de la Renta, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Rag & Bone.
Though Peter Copping had been handpicked as successor by Oscar de la Renta himself, there was still much excitement surrounding his debut as creative director, and much talk as to how he would go about honouring the late De la Renta’s legacy. Unsurprisingly, his first collection stayed true to the house’s tradition, with smart, chic skirt suits and glamorous ball gowns. That said, Copping’s more youthful approach came through in the shorter hemlines and in the clever use of pockets, which lent ladylike skirts and dresses a more casual air.
From one brand with a high-profile change of designer to another. Since Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier took the helm at Marc by Marc Jacobs last year, it has become much more than just a diffusion line. Following on from Chanel’s much talked about spring 15 show, this season’s Marc by Marc Jacobs collection was all about activism. Slogans and words such as ‘Solidarity’ and ‘Choice’ were emblazoned across tops and dresses in punky tartan, and every model sported a military-inspired beret worthy of Che Guevara.
Sporty separates and mannish tailoring are the bread and butter of Rag & Bone, but for autumn 15 designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright found a new way to update their signature aesthetic. Looking back to the 1990s music scene they grew up with, the duo referenced both hip-hop (shiny padded jackets and bold block colours) and grunge (silky slip dresses over leggings and long-sleeved T-shirts) in a fresh and wearable collection that is sure to influence the high street next season.