The key collections from this weekend’s catwalk shows, including Alexander Wang, Altuzarra and Diane von Furstenberg.
Victoria Beckham has always been best known for her sexy dresses, so it came as little surprise to see them play a starring role in her autumn 15 collection. This season, finely knit wool was used to create a selection of artfully draped, V-neck dresses that perfected a balance between austere and sexy, with gathering folds and asymmetrical hems offering a more relaxed look than we’ve come to expect. The simple round-neck midi dresses are also sure to be a hit among the women who’ve grown to love Beckham’s elegantly minimal aesthetic.
It was an (almost) all black affair at Alexander Wang, with the designer’s signature street-meets-sports style taking on a gothic, heavy metal edge. Stomping platform boots were teamed with mannish tailored jackets, cropped trousers, louche pyjama suits, dressing gown-style jackets and swishing longline skirts, all in black leather, velvet and wool, trimmed with tiny chains and sprinkled with punky hardware – even the formations of quilted outerwear and the cables of chunky knits were studded with rock-and-roll-ready embellishments.
Joseph Altuzarra’s collections are never short on sexiness, but this season he added a distinctly masculine edge – think tweedy tailored jackets layered over super-sheer lacy dresses, slashed with the designer’s now signature thigh high slit. This juxtaposition between masculine and feminine is nothing particularly new, but coming from a growing brand as influential as Altuzarra means we’re sure to see more of it. His fur trimmed wide collar coats are another trend worth watching.
A Diane von Furstenberg collection wouldn’t be complete without the designer’s signature wrap dresses, which reappeared in several different guises this season. The dress opened the show with a revealing deep V-neck in clean white, belted with a simple stripe of black, then as pattern and colour took over there were busy, ditsy designs and even an oriental-flavoured floral floor length version, finished off by a racy lingerie-inspired lace number. If it’s not broken, keep making them.