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New York Fashion Week

As we near the end of a somewhat lacklustre summer, the New York shows gave us something to look forward to for spring 12.

Even if the weather can’t be relied on, the saturated brights, tropical prints and emerging trend for sports utility will make enough of a statement to give customers a reason to spend.
Print, colour and sports details were the buzzwords. Prints ranged from tropical and Hawaiian at Altuzarra and Diane von Furstenberg to tribal at Donna Karan. For animal print, look to Proenza Schouler.

Silhouettes had a strong direction towards 1990s utility. Hooded jackets with drawstring detail were seen at Victoria Beckham, while Alexander Wang best typified this trend with a motocross-inspired mix of mesh sports jackets and utility pocket details.

Elsewhere, references were broad, ranging from 1920s at Ralph Lauren to Tommy Hilfiger’s 1960s box coats. As a result, designers were united more by colour and print than key silhouettes.

Orange and coral were the newest colour direction, in addition to red, chartreuse and electric blue. If you haven’t already, now is the time to take the colour plunge. Look to Marc by Marc Jacobs for inspirational colour blocking that also ticks the utility trend box.

White will also be key, with Diane von Furstenberg and Oscar de la Renta’s lace and crochet summer dresses standing out.

Come rain or shine next season, there should be nothing drab about in-store displays; and with real trend injections, particularly from 1990s utility, we wait to see if London, Milan and Paris follow suit.

Drapers comments

Marie Davies, junior fashion editor

“For spring 12 I will be coveting much of the Alexander Wang collection, in particular the floral print trousers and matching cropped jacket with leather trim. A great mix of the sports utility trend and floral print update, both key for the season. For red carpet, it has to be Oscar de la Renta with his beautifully bright and modern take on the iconic ballgown.”

Graeme Moran, junior fashion writer

“In terms of menswear, I was most surprised by Tommy Hilfiger. The bold use of colour, those modern camouflage prints and the update of Breton stripes in blocked sections on shirts and blazers really caught my eye, while also ticking several of the menswear key trends. There’s my spring 12 wardrobe sorted!”

Ana Santi, deputy editor

“A strong, separates-led collection, Theyskens’ Theory was one my favourite shows. The tailored jackets and high-waisted trousers stood out among a host of gems that will appeal to premium buyers looking to balance commerciality with standout pieces. But for a skirt, I’d go for Proenza Schouler and its beautiful on-the-knee pencil or A-line silhouettes.”

Caroline Nodder, editor-in-chief

“Three words. Knee. Length. Skirts. New York championed them - Proenza Schouler’s looked especially striking. Elsewhere, Marchesa and Oscar de la Renta showcased their finest tulle, fringing and feathers in true All-American style. But for me, Marc by Marc Jacobs scooped the prize for making ultra-laidback special.”


Nicki Minaj and Anna Wintour = most interesting front row pair thus far. @MBFashionWeek

Shoe of the season is definitely the Miu Miu sparkly heel. We spot three front row at Helmut Lang. @vogue_london

Thakoon makes old lady mauve hair look seriously good. Next stop, rescuing varicose veins? @TeleFashion

Seeing a lot of wet hair looks this season - even Victoria Beckham is on board the sporty trend! @Fashionista_com

Beautiful, feminine, light as air Preen show. Want every piece. @ELLEUK

Impressed with the NY shows so far, much more interesting than normal. Loving the sports influence and some great colourful prints. @Marie_Davies1

Bemused bystanders in the bus queue outside Oscar de la Renta. Yes we DO dress like this every day. @BazaarUK

Some pretty difficult silhouettes going here at Theyskens’ Theory: super short skirts, very high waisted jeans…and a lot of sparkle. @BoF

Never a champion of restraint, Oscar de la Renta’s collection was as beautiful and exuberant as it was diverse. @womensweardaily
The Fanning sisters and the Knowles sisters (plus Babyoncé!) sat front row at Rodarte today!

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