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New York menswear

The sportswear looks that led the race at the Milan and Paris men’s shows in July reappeared in New York, confirming urban athleticism as the key menswear trend for spring 12.

Summer outerwear was again noted as one of the season’s must-have items, with varsity, blouson and Harrington styles all appearing.

Lacoste stood out in particular, with a clean and simple utility-inspired sports look that was summed up by a standout hooded cobalt blue over-the-head jacket.

Things turned typically dark at Tim Hamilton, who worked athleticism in edgy black and inky blues. Blouson jackets were key, as was a contrast collared polo shirt.

Marc by Marc Jacobs continued the athletic look but with a preppy twist. Colour made a statement, with blocked sb suits in vibrant reds, greens and pinks. Jacobs also nodded to the emerging menswear print trend, with bright plaids, florals and even a bird print from the womenswear collection.

J Crew worked the all-American preppy look best, with collegiate styling standing out with a sports team twist. A key look was a crumpled blazer and loose knotted tie teamed with a denim shirt, shorts and cardigan for a smart yet casual style.

Tommy Hilfiger triumphed with an update of his trademark look. Colour was used confidently on striped knitwear, polo shirts, chinos and outerwear. Blocked resort stripes were used as an update on shirts and blazers, while the sportswear trend came through on colourful contrast-sleeve varsity jackets.

Michael Kors’ show notes described his look as “Afriluxe”, which translated into a high-end take on ethnic-influenced safari looks featuring exotic animal skins.

DKNY showed a collection of menswear classics given a modern twist. Varsity blousons came with contrast fabric sleeves, while dip-dye ombre effects caught the eye on polo shirts and knitwear.

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