Spurr of the moment
With the abundance of womenswear in New York, you could be forgiven for missing the selection of menswear labels, the most notable of which was British designer Simon Spurr. With a pedigree that spans Yves Saint Laurent, CK Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren Purple Label, his pieces are modern yet classic. Spurr’s own label is now in its sixth year, and his look is based heavily on tailoring. The blown-up houndstooth and bonded fabrics didn’t detract from a sharp yet playful offer.
A Beckham bag to harp over
The Beckhams’ latest addition has already written her name in the fashion books thanks to Victoria Beckham’s new ‘It’ bag, Harper, named after the seven-month-old girl. The fold-over satchel is a generous size with two large pockets at the front (presumably for carrying around all those baby essentials) and comes in a range of muted colours including seal grey. Perhaps a kidswear line could be on the cards for Beckham.
Hot name: Prabal Gurung
While New York is dominated by big shiny mega-labels, one name that broke through the brand babble was Prabal Gurung. Getting a lot of love on the blogs, news reports and Twitter, Gurung’s journey from hell to heaven in his collection seemed to mirror the designer’s rise to prominence off the back of some welcome red carpet exposure. In some ways it showed the old stagers how to do commercial meets creative with some of the iridescent neoprene and electric print pieces knocking Drapers’ socks off and, save for a few over-frilly moments, it was a strong and intriguing collection from a designer making a name for himself.
Practical and stylish, Proenza Schouler’s footwear stood out in what was one of New York’s highlight shows. Tough-as-nails styles will be perfect for trundling through winter weather with block heels, slight platforms and strapped fastenings. Texture is a key trend for autumn 12 and this was exemplified through the footwear at Schouler, as smooth black leather contrasted against woven-effect chequered patterns. These boots were made for walking, and are sure to, right out of stores come autumn.
Join the Crew
While colour was used as an accent at a vast number of shows in New York, the J Crew presentation grabbed brights with both hands, showing a collection full of brave and poppy tones. Pattern and print clashed, lending an exciting edge to a punchy and bold collection, to the point where it was surprising to see something plain, white or black. Particularly successful was the outerwear, with the zingy orange and electric blue sure to lift spirits on even the most grey day. The printed trousers were also good fun.
Styling on ice
Moncler’s heritage lies in the sort of coats you’d expect to find in snowier climes, so the brand dodged the Lincoln Center and instead headed for Central Park’s Wollman Rink, where a cocoa-sipping crowd witnessed an astonishing show. Moncler-clad skaters swept around the ice rink to New York, New York and Oh Happy Days performed by a live gospel choir, before a rousing finale saw 150 performers hit the slippery stuff to perform an intricate routine to MIA’s Bad Girls. Watch the show online at Drapersonline.com/NYFashionweek.
The kids are alright?
Well, according to Marc Jacobs they are. The New York darling courted controversy with his show this week by seemingly ignoring the barely fortnight old but unenforceable Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) guidelines regarding the age of models, aimed at protecting the health and welfare of young girls, by sending out two 14-year-olds in his autumn 12 show. Thairina Garcia and Ondira Hardin (pictured) both walked, much to the disdain of CFDA chief executive Steven Kolb, but Jacobs was unrepentant. “I do the show the way I think it should be and not the way somebody tells me it should be,” he said. But what do you think? Tell us at Drapersonline.com.
Bill Cunningham, an American icon in his own right, is giving high fives to the front row at Ralph Lauren and being just generally adorable.
Derek Blasberg, US editor-at-large, Harpers Bazaar @DerekBlasberg
Of course chartreuse looks fab with forest green. Why didn’t I think of that? @nanettelepore #nanette #nyfw instagr.am/p/HCK29NLKZW/
Elizabeth Holmes, reporter on the Wall Street Journal @EHolmesWSJ
Come backstage at our Fall 2012 Women’s Show; we’re calling it ‘Town and Country’. youtu.be/Ylep-xV5A9I
Designer Tommy Hilfiger @TommyHilfiger
Most annoying trend of #NYFW? Using an iPad as a camera. Not since the 1940s have cameras been this obnoxious instagr.am/p/HCGQLvBzwG/
Model Coco Rocha @CocoRocha
4 minutes till start time and was told to sit, the show is ready. God bless @MarcJacobsIntl only designer to start on time. #NYFW – MB
British Vogue magazine @BritishVogue
They’re playing the “Drive” soundtrack on the @31philliplim catwalk. Sadly, Ryan Gosling nowhere to be found. #nyfw
Womenswear chain Topshop @Topshop
Donna Karan paid tribute to #whitneyhouston at the end of the DKNY show at New York Fashion Week yesterday, with Million Dollar Bill #NYFW
Paris Vogue magazine @VogueParis
David Beckham is sitting in the front row at his wife’s show but wearing more than his H&M skivvies. Yeah, I know. Such a shame. #NYFW