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New York

Laura Weir

The New York catwalks served up an abundance of autumn 11 womenswear trends, including tobacco shades, luxurious metallics, raw silks, satins and fur trims, which added weight to the trends already seen among brands showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week and Pure London.

The New York catwalks served up an abundance of autumn 11 womenswear trends, including tobacco shades, luxurious metallics, raw silks, satins and fur trims, which added weight to the trends already seen among brands showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week and Pure London.

Prints varied wildly from fauna-inspired motifs at Marc by Marc Jacobs to bold geometric interpretations at Preen and fun ace of spade prints at Diane von Furstenberg.

Remnants of the ladylike direction kick-started by Prada for spring 10 remained for autumn 11 but the theme was given a 1940s twist. Preen delivered knee-length, close-cut skirts and dresses and beadwork, Marc Jacobs made bold use of saucer hats, while Donna Karan accessorised secretary dresses with long suede gloves and pearls.

Marc Jacobs remains the bastion of retro womenswear, and his Marc by Marc Jacobs diffusion line delivered one of the week’s most commercial and cohesive stories. The collection confirmed that the wide-leg, high-waisted trouser is still an important shape for autumn 11 (often shown with satin blouses tucked in), alongside retro, fur-trimmed trench coats.

In fact, outerwear in general had a good showing in New York, which is good news for retailers looking to capitalise on the cold UK winters. Designers showcased compelling and fresh outerwear options - Victoria Beckham’s cocoon coats were a confident evolution for the designer, and sat alongside Alexander Wang’s loose-fit utilitarian overcoat, Oscar de la Renta’s boxy jackets with luxurious fur-trimmed hoods and Altuzarra’s fur-trimmed parkas .

Smarter options came from the woollen, tuxedo-style blazers at DKNY and a plethora of options at Tommy Hilfiger - including duffle coat interpretations, shearling gilets and high-shine rain macs, which together offered something for almost every category of womenswear buyer.

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