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Paris Fashion Week: Best of the rest

Spring 11

Lanvin fused sportswear with more traditional menswear to reveal a collection of knitted cycle shorts, lightweight blousons, parkas and raglan-sleeved zip tops. Semi-sheer fine-gauge knits were teamed with straight-cut trousers rolled at the ankle for a deconstructed look. Rick Owens went for the androgynous look with boxy coats, jackets with leather panels, body-skimming tops and sleeveless parka-like shirts. Viktor & Rolf used to 1940s Biarritz in the south of France for inspiration with long-line jackets with sloping shoulders and belted at the waist teamed with tapered trousers, while Jean Paul Gaultier looked to Morocco in homage to 1970s Yves Saint Laurent, channelling the look on embellished kaftans and tunics and harem and full dhoti pants. The Yves Saint Laurent signature was also seen on Breton-striped sweaters, boiler suits and square-shouldered boxy db jackets. John Galliano was inspired by silent movie actors Charlie Chaplin and Buster Keaton. Drop-crotch trousers, either long or cropped at the calf, were teamed with shrunken blazers or trench coats, both belted at the waist, and paid homage to Chaplin, while pale suits worn with wing-collared shirts nodded to Keaton. A trademark beachwear section followed, featuring spliced-jersey pedal pushers, low scooping vests and tiny shorts. At Junya Watanabe, the designer opted for a sportswear-inspired collection with nautical references. Boxy, casual yachting-style jackets with leather trims sat alongside sb and db jackets teamed with a reproportioned trouser cropped above the ankle and often featuring a rolled hem. Celebrating the label’s 15th anniversary, Raf Simons unveiled a graphic tailoring collection with a sporty edge. The label’s signature sleeveless jacket was reworked in extreme tailored proportions that hugged the torso.

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