Phoebe Philo at Celine was one of the hottest tickets in town in Paris on Sunday and her minimalist, utility-chic spring 11 show did not disappoint.
Simple shapes, slim tailoring and white dominated the collection. Deep-V tunics were worn with low slung, wide leg trousers or textured knits. Slashes of colour appeared in orange, mahogany or blue on hems or vertical stripes on trousers. An arts and crafts print appeared on silk shirts and skirts.
In contrast, John Galliano’s collection was rooted in the artistic eccentricity of the 1920’s with a theatrical runway show that lived up to his reputation.
The works of artists such as Henri Matisse, Jean Cocteau and Fernand Léger influenced his spring 11 show, alongside the pantomime of 1920’s theatre with exaggerated wigs coated in gold and silver leaf, veiled bonnets in neon pink or orange chiffon, over-sized hats and hand-painted parasols.
Skirts were layered with contrasting palettes of pink and orange or red and pink and teamed with belted, fitted jackets. Fluid harem pants were styled with butter soft, leather jackets. The eclectic show climaxed with a series of bejewelled white chiffon dresses topped with veiled headresses.
Jean Paul Gaultier opened and closed his show with singer Beth Ditto - who modeled and sang - kick-starting a punk rock influenced show which echoed London in the early eighties.
Corsets, ripped fishnets, razored hair and patent Doctor Martin’s all featured alongside 3D prints on structured jackets with fierce shoulders. The audience was given ‘80’s 3D specs to wear to view some of the designs, while the remainder of the show was a cacophony of lace, chiffon and tiny frilled underwear. Bras were worn over jackets and biker chicks appeared in top-to-toe leather or denim.
Gaultier said to reporters after the show: “What counts is personality, there is not just the one form of stereotyped beauty. This collection’s pleats can be worn by any size and adapt to different body shapes.”