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Paris Fashion Week: John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Hermes

Spectators turned out in force to witness John Galliano’s eponymous collection for autumn 11 at Paris Fashion Week, despite the racism row which surrounds him and the decision to axe his scheduled catwalk show in favour of a lower-key “tableau vivant”.

Galliano was absent from the show, but the collection was clearly stamped with his signature style, and featured flowing romantic gowns and dramatic silhouettes. Daywear was made up of shapely jackets in tweed and wool with draped or slim-fitting pencil skirts. Garments were fringed, trimmed with fur and adorned with bows, which added a touch of lavish glamour.

Eveningwear included a selection of printed chiffon dresses which draped from the neck in purples and mossy greens and brushed the floor.

Thick tweeds, tailored trousers and ribbed cardigans made up the Jean Paul Gaultier autumn 11 collection which played with the theme of maturing beauties, “la bourgeoisie sans age”. The models all graced the catwalk with grey beehives and short kitten heels, and the clothing covered every inch of skin with silk blouses buttoned all the way to the top and turtlenecks layered under long straight dresses.

Outerwear reigned supreme with trenches made with contrasting fabrics, half in leather, half and wool, and parkas with luxurious fur trims.

Hermes showcased its first collection under the artistic direction of creative director Christophe Lemaire. The garments were kept simple and streamlined with coats cut cleanly with loose sleeves and blouses, dresses and trousers also slack. Other pieces included suede ponchos, blazers and tunic dresses. Colours were initially serene with a swathe of all white outfits which were then followed with a richer palette of ochre and taupe before merging into black tailoring and finishing with splashes of tangerine and turquoise.

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