Stripping away the circus of sniping and petty arguments that surrounded the Saint Laurent show, it was hard not to feel a little deflated by Hedi Slimane’s debut womenswear collection.
All the usual Saint Laurent tropes were there, but that was just the point – it was too ‘usual’ for a debut show and didn’t represent a significant advancement of the label. Le Smoking was evident, as were the pussy bows and lots of black, but it all felt too derivative. Unfortunately where Slimane added his signature skinny rock-chick vibe, it came off too reminiscent of his previous menswear work at Dior Homme.
In short Commercial, yes (it will do well for stockists), but it lacked the inspiration to get the wider market excited.