Giambattista Valli and Saint Laurent were among the other key shows of the day
Stella McCartney’s signature masculine/feminine mash-up veered more towards the latter this season – corsetry lent structure to a number of pieces, smart wool dresses slipped sensually off one shoulder and several looks were accessorised with ladylike pearl necklaces. Despite this, the collection retained the relaxed, undone air that has earnt the British designer such a huge following. An ethical fur-free [which is what she calls fake fur] fur crafted from luxurious merino wool was a very attractive alternative to the real stuff that has dominated the autumn 15 runways thus far.
Florals are a key feature of Giambattista Valli’s repertoire, but this season the Italian designer took his signature motif on a retro trip. Appliqued lacy flowers appeared on everything from mod mini dresses to boho maxis and flares. Elsewhere sequined stripes and zigzags added a graphic edge. While there have been plenty of references to the sixties and seventies already this season, Valli’s inherently feminine aesthetic offered a new twist on the trend.
Moving on a decade or so, designer Hedi Slimane looked to the Eighties in his latest outing for Saint Laurent. From the super-short tulle prom dress layered under a mannish blazer that opened the show, to a pair of slashed leather trousers, the show had a definite punk vibe. While much of the collection will be too daring for even the biggest Saint Laurent fan, there were plenty of pieces here, including leather jackets, skinny suiting and oversized knits, that were made with the customer in mind.