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Paris Fashion Week: Understated opulence at Dries Van Noten

Shows from Rochas and Cédric Charlier were among the other highlights from day two of Paris fashion week.

“Grounded glamour,” as he called it in his show notes, is what Dries Van Noten does best, and his autumn 15 collection is a case in point. Tops and jackets crafted from rich brocade or covered in rows of sequins were paired with super-slouchy trousers in a military inspired khaki fabric. A skirt in the same material featured a flowing train, in a fairytale-tomboy twist.

Rochas is celebrating its 90th anniversary this year. This fact can’t have been lost on designer Alessandro dell’Acqua, whose autumn 15 collection had a definite vintage feel. Graphic swallow illustrations conjured up visions of Tippi Hedron in Alfred Hitchcock’s thriller The Birds, while a palette of black, brown, grey and yellow alluded to the restraint of the inter-war years.

Belgian-born Cédric Charlier may not be a household name, but his understated-yet-chic designs have attracted a number of influential retailers, and his stockists now include Net-A-Porter, Harvey Nichols and Dover Street Market. Sticking to the clean, minimal aesthetic for which he is known, Charlier’s autumn 15 collection had a sporty feel. Pleated minis in contrasting colours offered a luxe take on the tennis skirt, while his burgundy and navy varsity jacket is sure to be a bestseller.

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