As well as Galliano’s ready to wear debut at Maison Margiela and other highlights from #PFW
John Galliano unveiled his first ready to wear collection at the recently renamed Maison Margiela following his couture debut earlier in the year. He balanced enough Margiela house signatures with a few of his own to nod to the past while also offer something fresh. The vintage feel of the maxi coats and miniskirts, the reworking of old garments and fabrics into something new, the dramatic shapes and precise tailoring, the kookiness and eccentricity of his models and make up all combined into an odd but successful mix. The outerwear will certainly stand out to buyers.
Celine designer Phoebe Philo instilled a new playfulness into her collection this season. Naïve hand drawn foxes and weasels appeared across tops, while zebra stripes, padded duvet fabrics and oversized fur cuffs and pom poms adorned coats and scarves signalling a new direction.
An abstracted animal pattern swirled across the collection at Christian Dior, bringing curvy colourful shapes to Raf Simons’ new offering. The tailored coats were key, wide lapelled and in cosy, chunky tweeds or treated fur, alongside mannish suiting with cropped slim trousers.
There was an ode to the original designer Cristobal at Balenciaga, where current designer Alexander Wang looked back to the brand’s classic shapes, such as the big, round shouldered cocoon coats and voluminous skirts. But Wang gave everything a younger edge through embellishment inspired by razor blades and staple-like metal clasps edging hems.
At Givenchy we saw a mash up of Victoriana references and Latino Chola girl styling with signature brand stapes, such as sexy velvet and lace dresses, peplum tailored jackets and slim cropped trousers contrasted with heavy facial jewellery.
At Chloe, the retro boho vibe that was present for spring 15 was still felt in the long billowing dresses, but tailoring added a new element, with wide trousers pooling on the floor and long mannish coats sweeping at the feet of models.