Dark palettes and heavy fabrics made atypical spring looks as the big-label circus blew into town.
Paris, as is usually its wont, was in a controversial mood this season and in more ways than one, as we’ve already discussed in the Fashion Foreword (p22). But the clothes were contentious because some trends previously established at New York, London and Paris were jettisoned while new localised ones appeared. One of the most peculiar and divisive themes that crept up like a big blanket of buzzkill (especially after the jolliness of London and Milan) was the recurrence of black.
Yes, if any fashion week can claim the darkest of all shades as its own it would be Paris, but on occasion it sprang to mind that perhaps some of the designers had forgotten they were creating spring collections, such was the expanse of black. Materials too seemed weightier, sometimes due to the colour but in the case of Miu Miu and Saint Laurent, the use of fur seemed extravagant and unsuitable for the season.
That said, see-through fabrics carried on from where Milan left off while the elegance and femininity of some of the strongest collections shone through. Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear bow for Christian Dior was met with a great deal more positivity than Hedi Slimane’s at Saint Laurent, while Karl Lagerfeld blew everyone away with his turbines and Marc Jacobs escalated his claim as fashion design’s numéro un with his Louis Vuitton show. Here’s hoping everyone plays nice when menswear rolls back into town next year.