The fashion week’s top trends and stories at a glance.
Baseball jackets, flight jackets, bombers – call them what you will but shorter outerwear was just as important as the attention-grabbing long coats. While leather was the obvious material to employ, the most successful styles were those made from wool, boiled or otherwise, and cleanly designed, allowing the soft curve of the ribbed collar to add interest. Adam Kimmel (pictured) was among those looking particularly hot, but the style featured in some way or another across most shows.
A ring to it
Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci is known for producing those ‘what the…?’ moments but, even for him, the nose rings he sent all his models down the runway wearing were a bit out-there. The designer’s lifelong obsessions are the American flag and the Minotaur, so no prizes for guessing which was realised in the most obvious of ways with the men, seemingly a little uncomfortable with the jewellery. Right for the show but don’t expect to see these on the high street any time soon.
On a roll
It’s pretty clear to anyone with eyes that the knitwear shape of the autumn 12 season is the rollneck. Worn on its own, or most interestingly under shirts,other jumpers, T-shirts and jackets, it’s the new thermal vest, only slicker and, well, visible. Hermès (pictured) was particularly fond of them but most labels got involved. What with Pitti Uomo, Milan Fashion Week, Bread & Butter and now Paris all pointing towards the roll being huge for autumn 12, you’ll definitely get it in the neck if you don’t buy into this trend.
Ted or dead
It might not suit every customer profile but the teddy bear coat is an important highlight to take from Paris. While Raf Simons’ andCerruti’s pieces were their respective collections’ showstoppers, the double-breasted fluffy Maison Martin Margiela version (pictured) was the definitive coat of this type at the shows. Worn over a tux, it was the perfect counterpoint to trad evening outerwear, the fun balanced by how darn good it looked. In the real world this will come through as linings and trims, more practical but no less stylish.
Never one to toe the trend line, the off-the-wall nature of Thom Browne’s autumn 12 collection wouldn’t have come as a huge surprise but the sheer scale of the American’s craziness was out of this world. Having taken inspiration from both The Road Warrior (aka Mad Max 2) and The Longest Yard, Browne’s clash of punks and jocks was a scrimmage of studs, spikes, inflated shoulders, crop tops and checks. Strip back some of the padding and make-up and there were flashes of actual products but it was still a show in the most theatrical sense and punctuated the week well. Whether it’ll work in stores remains to be seen…
The double bubble
This autumn it would be churlish not to make yours a double, but before you reach for the drinks cabinet, instead look to outerwear and tailoring for your fix. The trend for doubling up extended across sharp blazers, perfect pea coats and long, slouchy overcoats designed to be worn open, signalling a smarter, more luxurious direction for outerwear. While tailoring was neat and tidy, the jackets and coats were the most interesting, spanning short boxy styles, such as JL Sullivan’s, right up to dramatic, sweeping versions that are sure to capture the imagination.
What Drapers says….
Where menswear’s at
With the market’s four biggest events over for another season, the autumn 12 menswear trends are now pretty much fleshed out. While some may come as no surprise – quilting, for example – and others slowly come up on the rails, like the move towards dbs, some trends have seemingly popped out of nowhere.
Take camouflage. What was recently only an interesting side attraction, seen sparingly on trims and turn-ups on street style blogs and at Pitti Uomo, has now developed into a fully fledged trend, as the high street and high-end designers rework the iconic print into modern, refined iterations (pictured is Jean Paul Gaultier’s take). Army surplus this most certainly is not. Similarly, rollneck jumpers, in all weights and textures, have cropped up as the freshest way to work a knit – again, from top to bottom brands are backing them, and so should you. Capes, on the other hand, not so much.
It’s heartening to see the more unusual trends gathering momentum beyond the catwalks, bringing a frisson of excitement to the well-trodden heritage and tailoring paths. Whether it’s symptomatic of a stuttering economy or a reaction to a general menswear malaise, it’s good news for a sector that’s traditionally come across as the staid older brother to womenswear’s more dynamic and trend-led market.
And there’s no better sign of menswear’s rise to prominence than the recent announcement from the British Fashion Council regarding the introduction of the London Collections: Men event, finally taking the UK’s menswear shows out of the shadow the fairer sex casts. The future’s bright…
Coffee and cake on the #Lanvin catwalk. We’ll have a café noir, a slice of brioche & a bow tie if you’ve got one instagr.am/p/jhUi5/ Etailer Mr Porter @MRPORTERLIVE
Early morning giggles at Junya Watanabe as one front row bench breaks in two. Seems to happen only when GQ UK sit down #fashion Wallpaper magazine @wallpapermag
Spy attaché cases opening accessories #lanvin. Lots of coat remixes, wide (almost bootcut) wool trousers, furry caps #fashion Guardian assistant fashion editor Simon Chilvers @simonchilvers
Driving through Paris alongside the Seine with junior members of the team: “Wow, it’s just like in Ratatouille!” Godard would be thrilled. Jeremy Langmead, editor-in-chief at etailer Mr Porter @jeremylangmead
Hermès, always chic and lux. How a ridiculously rich man should dress. Sweet burgundy coat. #pfw yfrog.com/h2jkykoj Details magazine senior style editor Eugene Tong @DetailsEugene
Appearing soon from a globe near you, the @mrkimjones LV man is slick-haired, belted and super smart twitpic.com/894k00 i-D magazine @iD_magazine
Can’t fall asleep. Maybe I’m too excited for Givenchy Fall/Winter 2012 Men’s collection today. #PFW Blogger Tom Ford is my Dad @TOMFORDISMYDAD