Menswear designers in Paris threw some fresh ideas into autumn’s trend mix, including some reworked classics and bolder palettes.
The shearling trend, first seen at London Collections: Men, carried through to Paris on aviator-style jackets from labels such as Christian Dior, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Cerruti. With heavy leather or suede fabrics, shorter cropped styles are likely to work better on a commercial level as longer lengths may be a touch too dramatic for everyday customers.
The trend for big coats showed no sign of slowing down, with dropped shoulders a key silhouette across oversized, below-the-knee outerwear. Labels such as Hermès and Kolor showed the look doesn’t have to be too extreme, with slimmed-down single and double-breasted coats cut closer at the waist for a less exaggerated aesthetic. Others, such as Louis Vuitton, emphasised the proportions with large lapels.
Paris designers were more adventurous with their use of colour than their Milan and London counterparts, with burgundy standing out as one of the most wearable themes. The shade works well across separates, particularly trousers, for a safer buy - although Valentino and Kris Van Assche showed full burgundy suits, which look modern when paired with casual shirts or jumpers.
First flagged as a major autumn 14 trend in Drapers’ Menswear Special (January 18), parkas marched onto the Paris catwalks with Christian Dior and Junya Watanabe contrasting the functional outerwear garment with suits. While the parka will always appeal to a younger customer, fur-trim hoods and additional details such as tartan linings offer a premium look for older shoppers.
This age-old menswear trend received a makeover in Paris, as monochrome stripes were shown in variations from pinstripe to bolder lines. Mostly worked across casual pieces such as jumpers or trousers at Lanvin, or on coats at Saint Laurent Paris, thicker stripes work well for a fun take while thin pinstripes on a double-breasted suit create a classic look.
Wider-leg trousers have moved on from the somewhat outlandish, high-waisted styles of spring 14 to a slouchier, more wearable fit. The wide silhouette gives a fresh feel to suits - as seen at Paul Smith - and will work well for a younger shopper.
The trend also provides an alternative smart trouser with a sense of fun, as seen styled with a sweater at Givenchy.
In Paris many designers played on the tonal trend seen in London and Milan, with camel a popular shade. While Carven’s head-to-toe look may be too much for some, the camel and beige layering pieces at Paul Smith and Valentino can work for a wide age range. Leather pieces will appeal to an edgier customer, while wool and suede are more conservative.
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- Images provided by Catwalking