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Autumn 12

Having first been a menswear designer, it was no surprise that Trussardi creative director Umit Benan presented a collection that was tied to tailoring but also refreshingly unrestrictive. Three-piece suits, belted blazers and structured, menswear-inspired coats carried this attention to construction throughout the range but it was far from boxy or severe.

A mild South American vibe tinged the soft but structured clothes, most obvious with Peruvian hats but most satisfying with a naively embroidered pale jumper, refined rucksacks and the colour story. The colour was a statement – organised in sections in a regimented way gave it most impact but the tone-on-tone looks of grey, beige, rust, earthy green and jet black sat alongside each other comfortably. Leather, cord and textured lambswool made the block colour looks interesting.

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