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Autumn 12

After returning to the couture schedule in January after an eight-year absence, Donatella Versace continued where that collection left off with a comparable palette and similarities in silhouette, with jutted hips on strapless dresses and hints of sci-fi metallic from peek-a-boo slit bodices. Lemon, orange and black led the way for colour, with metallic silver and gold closing the show on sequined evening gowns. There was a cut-and-sew nature to the clothes, with exposed and exaggerated seams. Religious symbolism contrasted the overtly sexy nature of the mini dresses, as the cross was interpreted in many ways through embellishment detail on conservative rollneck jumpers and velvet coats, and all over printed pencil skirts and dresses. Contrast was important throughout with panelling, mixed fabrics and colours continuing the trend that gained prominence in London.

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