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Yves Saint Laurent

Autumn 12

Predominantly black collections can be a bit hit or miss. The absence of any colour can either look incredibly slick or just rather dull. Thankfully Stefano Pilati managed to pull off the former, with an Yves Saint Laurent show full of neatly tailored pieces and interesting fashion hybrids. Leather abounded, featuring heavily on panels, lapels and edgings that signalled the designer’s aim to add a touch of goth or punk to the label’s signature suits and coats. This culminated in a well-executed full coat/biker jacket mash-up but was less dramatically used across trousers, tops and trims to bring cohesion to a distinctly luxurious collection. Footwear was equally bold, with metal straps and plates adorning simple penny loafers and boots adding to the refined punk vibe. Wool and knits softened the look just enough to make most of it wearable.

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