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Yves Saint Laurent

Autumn 12

In contrast to Raf Simons’ final curtain call at Jil Sander, Stefano Pilati’s last collection for Yves Saint Laurent was rather devoid of emotion, the now former creative director sticking to what he knows by giving us a tough and sexy show based on some of the house’s iconic designs. The calla lily and Le Smoking were both present and correct, the latter reworked in a wrapped coat, a cropped jacket or cape, while chain-mail dresses hinted at the eroticism Pilati has brought to YSL over the years. Colour came through in deep forest green and berry tones that were also picked up in the vampy lip colour while leather was key throughout, from the bold if a touch unwearable long-sleeved tops to the belted coats and beyond. Pilati’s legacy may well be tinged with less emotion than Simons’ but should be regarded as no less important.

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