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Copenhagen: Autumn 15 collections

An overhaul of the city’s shows met with a positive reception, as buyers enjoyed a diverse mix of brands.

Copenhagen saw a shake-up of its trade show schedule this season, with long-standing event CIFF joined by new menswear offshoot CIFF Raven and two-location show Revolver. The mood across the city was upbeat, with exhibitors and buyers reporting a renewed energy and more international visitors.

CIFF, running from January 29 to February 1 at the Bella Center, was the biggest at about 538,000 sq ft. It drew in a varied crowd thanks to its diverse brand offer, which ranged from contemporary and mainstream women’s and men’s wear, through to streetwear labels and emerging names.

CIFF Raven ran at the same time, making its debut this season at Forum. A beautifully executed event, it had a relaxed showroom-meets-art
exhibition environment. A handpicked selection of about 100 menswear brands saw some of-the-moment directional labels sitting alongside more established names. Exhibitors said footfall was lower than expected, but most were happy that high-profile buyers had visited.

Revolver, taking place at Øksnehallen and Lokomotivvaerkstedet on January 29 to 31, essentially replaced and in many ways replicated defunct shows Gallery and Vision, which ended last season. While there was a change in name and venue, a similar brand list and layout made the shows somewhat familiar. The Lokomotivvaerkstedet Fishmarket venue was the quietest with a slower pace, whereas the Øksnehallen Meat Packing District was packed out with buyers actually writing orders.

Uniforms for the Dedicated
Revolver

Swedish menswear label Uniforms for the Dedicated began as an artistic collective and this season takes inspiration from the world viewed as a map and a Rubik’s Cube. Map motifs are seen throughout, while artistic prints are key on shirts and T-shirts. By 2018 the brand aims to only use fabrics made from recycled fibres; 40% of the collection is now made this way.

Wholesale prices range from €24 (£17.99) for T-shirts to €250 (£187.46) for outerwear.

Uniforms of the dedicated AW15

2nd Day
Revolver

Day Birger et Mikkelsen’s diffusion line 2nd Day is moving away from its denim-led, dark monochromatic and grungy aesthetic towards a more fashion-focused and individualistic look. The new range introduces lots more colour, geometric print and pattern, as well as a focus on
more premium fabrics. Prices are increasing by 15% on average. The refreshed outerwear offer is particularly strong, with an oversized soft pink wool coat and statement multicoloured collarless option standing out. Long-line collarless mohair cardigans are proving bestsellers, alongside the line’s top-end shearling coats, which have been selling particularly well despite their high price.

Wholesale prices range from €27 (£20) for basic tops to €243 (£181) for wool coats. The leather and shearling-lined coat is €2,800 (£2,000).

2nd Day AW15

Just Female
Revolver

A raft of new trouser styles were unveiled by Danish womenswear brand Just Female, including high-waisted, wide-leg and bootcut options. Coloured suede and leather is central to the collection, with fake fur adding interest on outerwear. The brand prides itself on its clean and minimalistic design, as well as more feminine pieces that tend to appeal to UK buyers, such as printed dresses.

Wholesale prices range from £24 for a top to £230 for a leather jacket.

Just Female AW15

Stine Goya
Revolver

Tribal references with a fresh, playful edge feature in Dutch womenswear label Stine Goya’s designs, in a palette of white, black, baby pink and green, mixed with muted greys, pastels and gold. Heavy fringe details, delicate knitwear and printed silk kimonos sit alongside constructed coats in neoprene and wool, and down jackets.

Key styles include a silk printed top (£180), a wine-coloured padded jacket (£340) and an ombré fringed dress (£420).

Stine Goya AW15

People’s Republic of Cashmere
Revolver

Good-quality basics can be hard to find, but buyers wanting cashmere should check out this Danish brand. Working exclusively in 100% cashmere, its basic jumper shapes and accessories come in a wide and varied palette and are excellent quality, with seasonal updates added every six months. The autumn 15 collection has
a contrast colour-panelled jumper with half-roll neck, a striped nautical jumper and a loose trouser and jumper combination with a sporty stripe in contrast colours.

Wholesale prices range from €35 (£26) for beanie hats to €135 (£100) for a long dress.

 

Dante 6
C/FF

Dutch womenswear brand Dante 6 hired agency Macandi Showrooms to launch it in the UK for pre-autumn 15, and aims to secure more stockists with its autumn 15 range. A chunky tailored coat in teddy bear-style fabric in navy and grey (€142/£106), a textured belted cardigan in black and green (€92.50/£69) and a fake fur gilet featuring contrast colour panels in black and brown (€140/£105) have been bestsellers so far, while a carry-over real leather pencil skirt (€259/£192) is also popular.

Dante AW15

L’Homme Rouge
C/FF Raven

Now in its fifth season, Swedish menswear label L’Homme Rouge launched its first winter outerwear pieces at CIFF Raven. These include a smartly tailored sb coat in striped cashmere blend wool, featuring slightly wide lapels as an interesting point of difference (€200/£149 in stripes, €170/£127 in black), while a more functional minimal zip-through coat has a memory-forming fabric to keep its simple, structured shape (€160/£119) - perfect for this season’s smart-meets-sporty performancewear look. Signature shirts come in seersucker or crêpe, as well as featuring all-over prints (€40 to €50/£29 to £37). Embroidered sweatshirts (€56/£42). and jeans with a 1990s-style light blue denim wash are also new (€55/£41). Everything comes with a 2.7 mark-up.

LHomme Rouge AW15

Kings of Indigo
C/FF Raven

Dutch denim label Kings of Indigo has upped its quality levels, introducing more Italian and Japanese fabrics and a more complete ready-to-wear collection and outerwear range. A vintage light blue wash called Light Marble has been a bestseller, mainly in a slim jean fit, although a straighter-leg cut has done well. A coat with organic cotton outer, waterproof lining and taped seams and hood is a highlight, as is an oversized denim jacket. Italian knitwear and thick wool overshirts are also popular.

Wholesale prices range from £20 for jersey basics to £135 for a wool coat and £34 to £88 for denim, with a 2.6 mark-up.

Kings of Indigo AW15

Brixtol
C/FF Raven

Teaming up with UK sales agent Egomark for the first time, Swedish outerwear-focused brand Brixtol has introduced a number of styles to catch the eye of buyers. These include a bomber jacket elongated to become a winter coat worked in a waxed finish (£70), a chunky down-filled bomber with zip-off hood (£85), a heavy wool duffle coat reimagined with technical clips instead of old-fashioned wooden toggles (£120) and a new insulating quilted piece, sold as a transitional layering item (£40).

Brixtol AW15

Tonsure
C/FF Raven

The third collection from Copenhagen menswear brand Tonsure got a lot of attention due to its collaboration with teddy bear company Steiff. Both a long-line and a shorter coat in teddy bear fabric took the fuzzy trend literally. Other pieces included a cropped and padded bomber with oversized pockets, a wool and cashmere blend shirt, jacket and trouser combo with wool-covered buttons, and an oversized padded jacket in nylon twill.

Wholesale prices from €30 (£22) for a T-shirt to €475 (£355) for the Steiff coats.

Tonsure AW15

Coster Copenhagen
C/FF

This three-year-old womenswear brand from designer Pia Coster brings a feminine edge to simple pieces, taking inspiration from nature including wood, leather, stone and the sea. Key pieces include a hand-knitted sleeveless cardigan (£57) and a fisherman-style cream jumper (£39) in 100% wool, which each feature labels of the name of the knitter that made them. The natural elements are contrasted with pieces influenced by space and technical sportswear, such as a black dress with mesh sleeves (£35).

Coster AW15

 

“We visited CIFF, CIFF Raven and Revolver. I found that Revolver Meat Packing District and CIFF had the most traffic. Revolver was great as we found most of the brands we work with and some great new ones under one roof.”

Nicholas Thorne, menswear buyer for five-store London independent Question Air

“We needed something new, but I felt that the different locations were either incredibly busy or very quiet. Perhaps more of a balance needs to be struck between the creative and commercial elements. There were strong offerings from key Danish brands, but elsewhere a lot of repetition - so many ‘tasteful’ collections left me wanting something a bit newer and irreverent.”

Helen Stringer, buyer for women’s brands at Urban Outfitters

“We visit the Copenhagen shows each season, but Scandinavian brands have historically been too premium for us. That does seem to be changing now. We’re looking for anything interesting at an accessible price point, and we’re trying to get brands we can sell globally.”

David Clark, men’s brands buying manager, Asos.com

“It’s all about seeing the right buyers from the right stores and so far we have. There’s been a steady flow at CIFF Raven and there is a broad mix of brands here, which is good. We’ve seen small boutiques that we wouldn’t usually be aware of.”

Patrick Grant, designer at menswear brand E Tautz

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