Drapers rounds up the key shows from this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week, with new names to note and established brands from across the Danish capital.
The Ganni girl, with her sweet nonchalance and relaxed Danish cool has become a firm favourite (and thriving best-seller) in recent years, and Ganni was the show to know in Copenhagen this season.
For spring 18, creative director Ditte Reffstrup continued the brand’s rapid evolution with a season anchored by the signature Ganni floral dress, along with long line shirt dresses and peasant styles that are sure to inspire numerous fans. While much of the offering was super-feminine – ruffles and tulle gave an air of whimsy – structured blazers, 1980s square sunglasses and low-slung, extreme wide-leg jeans added a sense of retro androgyny.
Baum und Pferdgarten
While Scandi brands tend towards the minimalist, Baum und Pferdgarten shattered that idea for spring 18 with its playfully eccentric, everyday maximalism.
Classic fabrications such as stripes, shirting, checks and florals were paired with shimmering metallics, vibrant colours and flashy detailing such as ruffles. While some styles played homage to brands such as Gucci and Balenciaga, and perhaps featured an adorned sleeve or ruffle too far, highlights came in the more paired-back, commercial items. A ruffled floral midi-dress was elegant and feminine, while a pair of Prince of Wales checked trousers paired with a mustard cable-knit jumper shone with masculine elegance.
By Malene Birger
It took less that 24 hours for the see now, buy now collection from By Malene Birger to make its way from the catwalk to outfits of the fashion week front row, and as one of the longest-standing brands showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week, By Malene Birger retains a sense of excitement and desirability with each showing.
For spring 18, designs were sophisticated and paired back with just a hint of drama and a dash of exotic 1970s luxe. Elevated basics, such as high-waist, wide-leg chinos, satin pyjama shirts and midi-skirts appeared alongside vinyl mini-shorts, lurex disco dresses and leather slips. While the basics may well be the biggest sellers, Birger’s statement styles gave the whole offering a sense of grown-up glam.
A finalist for the 2017 LVMH prize this year, up-and-coming designer Cecilie Bahnsen’s spring 18 designs were sculptural and charming – Bahnsen’s series of dresses were designed to appear like works of art in their own right.
Volume was a focus, and dressed appeared in super-sized silhouettes – giant shoulders, exaggerated ruffles and puffball outlines. Despite this, there was an underlying girliness: sugar pinks and sheers created a storybook aesthetic. Quilting and stand-up collars added a sense of Elizabethan drama, and while daring, much of the collection was wearable, Babydoll dresses and swirling circle strap dresses were top picks.
Inspired by the film All the President’s Men, which revolves around the Watergate scandal, menswear brand Mfpen’s debut presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week had a rakish, 1970s workwear aesthetic. On a backdrop of box files and staplers, the collection featured slouchy, oversized suiting in tones of beige, blue and grey. Classic styles were modernised with unexpected details – an ankle-swinging tailored trouser or a portrait of Robert Redford printed on the corner of an Oxford shirt. The overall affect was one of nonchalant, vintage chic – chiming with the retro office vibe that was prevalent across the menswear catwalks earlier in the year, and looks set to continue as a dominant trend across the sector.