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Denim Première Vision: The denim trends and developments for spring 18

Back in Paris with new features, Denim Première Vision offered the latest fabrics and sustainability initiatives designed to make denim stand out

Denim Première Vision returned to Paris on 2 and 3 November after a five-edition hiatus in Barcelona and, although it was squeezed into a hectic time in the denim calendar, the show at the Paris Event Center was deemed a success by most mills, brands and designers Drapers spoke.

Kingpins was running concurrently in New York and the event was just a week after Kingpins Amsterdam, but Denim Première Vision attracted 80 exhibitors and a healthy turnout of around 2,300 visitors from high street retailers and brands including New Look, Marks & Spencer, Topshop, Next, Marques Almeida, Vivienne Westwood, 7 For All Mankind, Kenzo, Levi’s and Zara.

In response to visitor demand, the show hosted its first Première Vintage Market organised by Italy-based Denim Boulevard, offering denim connoisseurs the opportunity to browse and buy a selection of the finest vintage garments.

There was also a programme of talks to examine emerging trends and future challenges affecting the growing and increasingly complex industry.

Italian denim designer Piero Turk addressed some of the issues facing premium brands during one session, as price-driven retailers increasingly eat up much of the market share and commoditise the denim industry. Turk argued that price focus was causing a stasis in trends and development, citing the example of stretch, which has been the main look for more than a decade. He suggested that authentic, rigid denim fabrics (showcased by mills such as Japan’s Kuroki), could offer more potential for creativity and newness, although most exhibitors reported that stretch was still in great demand in the mainstream market.

In a separate session, Guess denim design director Ikeme Eshemokhai underlined the importance of the price-quality ratio, particularly for premium denim brands competing against fast fashion rivals: “If you retail at €200, it needs to look as if it costs that much, not like something you can pick up at Zara for a third of the price,” she said.

Sustainability and limiting environmental impact was a big part of many exhibitors’ presentations. French firm Filatures du Parc were among those showcasing yarn made with recycled fibres, and Brazilian company Vicunha has shifted to producing only denim made using 100% Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton. Prosperity Textile has become the first Chinese denim mill to join the Bluesign environmental system.

Latest innovations on show at Denim Première Vision

Muhammad Adnan, senior development manager at Artistic Milliners

Our latest launch is the 90210 Season III, which is our collection of fabrics designed with an authentic rigid look but with soft handling and stretch effects. We’re also offering the Neoprene line, which is just 8oz and perfect for jeggings, and a four-way stretch fabric called Omni-Way.

Birim Atagan, marketing manager at Bossa Denim

We’re moving from using 30% BCI cotton at the moment to 60% by 2017. By 2018, our target is to use 90% BCI cotton and 10% organic cotton. We have also developed the DyeArt process, which saves water and produces some beautiful soft 70s shades.

Hürriyet Öztürk, product development chief at Calık Denim

For spring 18 we’ve created Fix-Fit SkillSoft for women and Fix-Fit SkillMax for men, which combine stretch with an original denim look and hold. Raw Stretch combines the aesthetic of raw denim with the comfort of stretch, is naturally anti-bacterial and anti-odour, and has no problems with crocking.

Gülfem Şanto, marketing team leader at Orta Anadolu

We have three main themes for spring 18: Reverb, which gives an authentic, heritage look with mono or bi-stretch; Aerolight, which is ultra-lightweight with high stretch and recovery; and Indisense, which is a range of denims infused with natural elements such as seaweed, zinc or silver for cosmetic benefits.

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