Female shoppers are looking for comfort in their underwear and brands seek to empower increasingly demanding female customers. Here is the new generation of lingerie names to note in the market.
Moons & Junes
Based in Copenhagen, lingerie brand Moons & Junes describes its mission as working to “put an urban spin on traditional lingerie styles”.
Fitting with the current trend for comfortable lingerie, none of Moons & Junes’ styles are underwired or have padding.
Most sales currently come from the brand’s ecommerce site, but it is seeking to expand its wholesale offer for spring 20. It is on the lookout for its first UK stockists. It has 10 stockists including independent stores throughout Europe, and will launch into French department stores Printemps and Haussmann for autumn 19.
Wholesale prices range from £14 for knickers to £20 for bras; +45 22 70 19 77; moons-junes.com
Fleur of England
Luxury British lingerie brand Fleur of England is launching an expanded size range for its spring 20 collections. Bras will come in back sizes 28 to 38 and cup sizes A to G. Knickers and nightwear are available in XS to 2XL.
The Fleur in Bloom range features four new prints and a delicate floral embroidered design.
The fit of each item has also been altered to ensure styles are equally comfortable and offer the same level of support across all sizes. For example, wider cups have been added to the new DD+ boudoir bra shape and a new U-shaped back has been designed for E to G cup bras, both of which provide added support to larger sizes.
The brand has 40 stockists worldwide, six of which are in the UK, including Matchesfashion, Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Edinburgh independent Odyssey Boutique.
Wholesale prices range from £31 for bottoms to £70 for soft pieces such as robes and camisoles; 0117 924 4177; fleurofengland.com
British design and manufacturing underpin new luxury lingerie brand Mina Lingerie.
The label launched online in March this year with a six-item collection and opened for wholesale orders for spring 20.
All items in the range are 100% silk and woven French lace.
The collection includes delicate lace separates with a focus on modern shapes – such as high-neck and triangle bras – and are designed to be worn as underwear or as daywear. Highlights include a red lace, funnel-neck bralette.
Founder Sarah-Louise Henry is targeting luxury independent retailers and has ambitions to eventually launch a made-to-measure service.
Wholesale prices range from £34 for briefs to £64 for a camisole; 07816 756494; mina-lingerie.com
US based direct to consumer brand Thirdlove has been making waves in the American lingerie sector since it launched in 2014, thanks to its innovative approach to fit.
Founded by husband and wife Heidi Zak and David Spector, the brand has responded to increasing demand for better-fitting lingerie by making bras in half-cup sizes. It encourages women to measure themselves at home before ordering using a digital “fit finder”, which guides customers to find their correct size. The brand offers 78 size options.
Although relatively unknown in Europe, Thirdlove has grown rapidly in the US. In October 2018 it was estimated to be worth $750m (£604m) and was included on Forbes’ Next Billion Dollar Startup list.
Retail prices for range from $12 (£9.67) for underwear to $84 (£67) for bras; email@example.com; thirdlove.com
Sarah Brown London
Sarah Brown’s east London-based eponymous lingerie brand focuses on vintage and retro styles and techniques.
All items are designed and hand made in the brand’s London Fields studio.
Traditional techniques such as pleating, scalloping, French seams, rouleaux bows, envelope tucks and concertina silk straps are key, and core fabrics include Chantilly lace, silk, tulle and grosgrain.
Styles are inspired by a vintage aesthetic, such as the rose pink and black palette, with a contemporary twist provided via refreshed silhouettes, like the modern, playful balconette shape.
The brand was founded in 2016, and has four stockists, including sleepwear retailer Myza and London independent Wolf & Badger in the UK.
Wholesale prices range from £23 for knickers to £40 for pyjamas; 07941 334180; sarahbrownlondon.com
Swiss fashion collective Troo partners with young female designers on collaboration pieces to help share their work. Although it works with several creatives across different fashion categories, lingerie is a focus.
The lingerie collection focuses on vintage-inspired items – high-waisted knickers and soft-cup bra shapes in off-white lace and florals. Designs are inspired by scraps of 1920s lace owned by Troo founders and sisters Nic and Steff Fitzgerald.
The collection was created in collaboration with South African brand Nette Rose, one of the designers the Troo collective supports.
Troo is on the hunt for its first UK stockists, and has five stockists in Switzerland and Germany.
Prices range from CHF29 (£23) for knickers to CHF 79 (£63) for bras; +4176 492 26 16; troo.ch
What Lydia Made
Lydia Morrow launched her lingerie brand, What Lydia Made, in January 2019, after a successful Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign.
The brand is the latest bespoke, sustainable, direct-to-consumer lingerie label, following Lara Intimates and Luna Mae London.
What Lydia Made focuses on comfort and bespoke sizing with a custom-made element. Each style is made to order for individual clients, and the brand does not hold an inventory of product. Morrow notes that this minimises risk for the small business, as it does not incur materials or labour costs without a guaranteed return.
The brand encourages customers to measure for their exact fit, and can produce bras and knickers in more than 100 sizes.
The designs themselves feature contrasting colour blocking on soft cup shapes. Colourways include the “Battenberg” in sugary pink, white and yellow, and the “Scottish Shore” in soft grey, blue and indigo tones.
In addition to its wide size range, the brand also offers front clips for nursing mothers, “no boobs” bras and “pants with shaping” options for transdender and non-binary shoppers.
Prices range from £25 for knickers to £60 for a bra; firstname.lastname@example.org; whatlydiamade.com
Empowering up: body-positive lingerie brands