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LFWM: the 11 trends to know for autumn 20

Bethany williams gettyimages 1197506566

Creativity, craft and culture were on display at London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) for autumn 20. Drapers spots 11 top trends from the three-day event.

A vinyl record

Vinyl

Slick, shimmering, high-shine vinyl textures were a popular choice across the LFWM catwalks this season. At Qasimi and Pronounce, the dramatic finish was used on longline, sharply tailored jackets, which made for a more pared-back, commercial aesthetic. Elsewhere, however, designers took a daring approach, and several, including Martine Rose, presented wide-legged vinyl trousers in their collections for a gothic, 1980s vibe.

Change up your checks

Checks

A perennial favourite of London designers, checks once again sprung up across the collections for autumn 20. From houndstooth to windowpane to heritage tartans, the proliferation of checks across the runways was unstoppable. Several designers this season opted to layer multiple checks either in co-ord suiting – such as at Nicholas Daley – or with checked separates, as seen at Ahluwalia.

Outsized outerwear

Maxicoats

With the January chill biting at showgoers, the voluminous, oversized outerwear that appeared in many collections was an appealing prospect. Maxi-lengths and bold shoulders were offset with tailored silhouettes for coats that were simultaneously smart and swaddling. Highlights included Pronounce’s belted trenches and John Lawrence Sullivan’s double-breasted 1980s styles.

Winning windcheaters

Windbreakers

Utilitarian outerwear has been a mainstay on the menswear catwalks for several seasons. This time around, London’s designers focused on updating the classic windcheater jacket for modern shoppers. The zipped jacket took on a more creative, sophisticated aesthetic, and designers such as Paria Fazarneh and Chalayan showcased styles that featured elegant, exotic prints. Similarly, Bethany Williams’ and Nicholas Daley’s takes on the piece were bold, bright and sophisticated.

The new swinging sixties

Multicultural

Designers paid homage to London’s multicultural history in their collections this season – offering a fresh, international take on the 1960s and 1970s trend. While wide legs and retro sports silhouettes remained popular, designers including Ahluwalia, Wales Bonner, Bianca Saunders and Nicholas Daley celebrated the bygone aesthetic of London’s international communities – including Indian and Afro-Caribbean influences. Slouchy shapes, super-sized hats, tie-dye and an appealing burnt orange colour palette were all popular.

Bleachy keen

Pale denim

For autumn 20, pale and bleached shades look set to dominate the denim agenda. Acid wash, speckled and delicately patterned iterations of the fabric appeared far and wide on the catwalks – elegant slouchy shapes at E Tautz and structured co-ords at Martine Rose both featured bleached denim.

Colour play

Primaries

Themes of childhood and nostalgia littered the show notes of numerous designers this season, and one way this manifested was with a colour palette dominated by bold, brights and a focus on primaries. In Bethany Williams’ collection, which celebrated the bond of mother and child, the prints were inspired by children’s play blocks, and both 8on8 and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy showed styles with primary colour focuses. Elsewhere, Edward Crutchley presented a more adult, but nevertheless bright and bold, take on the palette.

Shepherd’s delight

Red

Scarlet fever took over the autumn 20 catwalks in London, as vibrant red popped up time and time again. While some collections featured just a flash of the bold shade – on the peek of a polo neck or ribbed beanie hat – others made use of it to dramatic effect. Highlights included John Lawrence Sullivan’s ruby red leather jacket and trousers, and Per Götesson’s scarlet overalls.

Legs up to 11

Wide trousers

Billowing, wide-legged trousers remained a dominant silhouette in the men’s collections this season, lending the pieces an insouciant retro aesthetic. Stand-out styles included Wales Bonner’s high-waist, checked trousers and Martine Rose’s louche, toffee tone slacks, which oozed 1980s cool.

Quilted quirks

Quiliting

Puffers, padding and quilting are set to be a core outerwear trend for autumn 20. For the new season, designers got creative with their quilting – using the technique to create three dimensional patterns on coats and jackets. Particular highlights were Ahluwalia’s swirled parka coat and a dramatic, obi-belted coat with geometric quilting from Pronounce.

Is that your Grandad’s knit?

Grandad jumpers

Oversized shapes, loose-spun knits and old-school patterns gave autumn 20 knitwear a handmade, worn, retro aesthetic. Muted tones and classic patterns were popular – for example, at Stefan Cooke, where fair isle styles were updated with the brand’s signature slashes. Meanwhile, Bethany Williams’ mother helped to knit the pieces that graced the designer’s catwalk.

 

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