Drapers speaks to Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matchesfashion.com, to find discover his highlights from the second day of menswear shows at London Fashion Week Men’s.
Why attend LFWM?
It’s been fascinating to watch how London Fashion Week Men’s has evolved and how the menswear industry seems to have emerged from the shadows of womenswear. I like the fact that I’ve seen designers grow and develop over the years, names like Craig Green and Wales Bonner. It’s also a great platform for home-grown talent and it’s certainly brought them attention internationally.
I think it’s also interesting to note that with a lot of the bigger names decamping to womenswear fashion weeks that it has become more about young talent and that should be celebrated. It’s always great to see designers we work with on schedule and I expect to see creativity and a lot of energy.
What did you think of today at LFWM?
Charles jeffrey spring 18
It’s been really busy today. I think with MAN and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy on the schedule it was never going to be bland was it? I arrived this morning at [the LFWM main venue on] the Strand and there was a huge crowd outside - it makes the energy and atmosphere around the shows feel very positive. And then in late afternoon Cottweiler and MAN were both on Brick Lane in east London - both shows felt like they were taking place in their natural home, the east end.
Which shows did you see today? What stood out?
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy was a lot of fun with a good energy. I think London needs this and it is expected. It feels authentic and has a disruptive spirit - it keeps things interesting. And there are sellable elements in the collection, particularly with his tailoring pieces.
Cottweiler spring 18
We’ve bought Cottweiler for autumn 17 so I was really looking forward to seeing the show and it did not disappoint. It feels like they are building a brand with a strong DNA. They are experts in textiles and this came through - the fabrications were really interesting and looked luxurious. This collection echoed 1990s sport and it was great to see a summer take on their aesthetic.
Wales Bonner does the best in precise tailored trousers - I particularly liked the tuxedo trousers with red stripes. Shirting was open which had a louche feel but the overall feeling was minimal, elegant and precision sharp.
What trends have you seen so far?
There was a real attention to detail and finish with the accessories at Cottweiler, which evoked elements of 1990s sportswear. I also like their refined muted palette. Charles Jeffrey Loverboy had us all brushing glitter off our clothes as we wandered onto the Strand - carnival had arrived.