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London catwalks: the highlights from Damien Paul of Matchesfashion.com

Matchesfashion.com’s head of menswear Damien Paul on the importance of London Fashion Week Mens and his highlights so far.

Why do you attend LFWM?

LFWM is a great way to start the international schedule - I like that I start each season supporting local London-based designers. It’s always fantastic to see gritty, emerging talent such as Craig Green grow and develop. It’s also a great opportunity to meet the brands and there is a real energy that is specific to London.

What did you think of today at LFWM?

This season it has been really upbeat. The shows have all been very busy and I have seen all the key retailers and media represented. It’s been good to see some of the established brands excel at what they do best.

What collections have stood out?

Oliver Spencer’s modern menswear felt relevant and wearable but it also felt like it moved forward with an interesting mix of clashing fabrics.

The last thing I thought I’d see on a menswear runway would be crochet but then JW Anderson never follows an obvious path. This seemed to be the key talking point on social media but I really like the knitwear and outerwear – I loved the leather jackets with oversized long sleeves. As ever JW Anderson was a fantastic start to Sunday.

I also enjoyed Wales Bonner’s beautifully crafted clothing. It felt like a real spectacle. The standout look for me was the tweed duffle coat – classic craftsmanship but executed in a thoroughly modern way.

We’ve picked up Martine Rose this season and there was a real buzz before the show. Who knew a highlight on the schedule would take place in a market in Seven Sisters? I loved the Human League hair, interesting cutaway backless mac and jackets and the vibrant use of colour. The Martine Rose tie pin looks set to be the stealth accessory of choice. A great show and a brilliant way to end the day.

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