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London catwalks: the buyer's view, day two

Get the London Fashion Week buyer’s view from Selfridges womenswear buying manager Heather Gramston, including her standout shows and trends of note.

Heather gramston selfridges womenswear buying managercrop

Heather gramston selfridges womenswear buying managercrop

Why do you attend LFW?

We come to discover growing new talent and it’s so refreshing seeing renegades and rebels who don’t feel commercial constraints. It’s a cliché to say these things about British talent but it’s true.

What did you think of today at LFW?

Today felt super busy, with lots of buyers and editors in town. There’s a real lightness to the mood.

Who stood out today?

Matty Bovan at Fashion East autumn 17

Matty Bovan at Fashion East autumn 17

Matty Bovan at Fashion East autumn 17

Matty Bovan – a textile-led collection, with lots of interesting techniques like crochet, shredded and metallic knits all spliced together. And the jewellery was strong. The catwalk was styled by Katie Grand with a diverse model casting.

JW Anderson autumn 17

JW Anderson autumn 17

JW Anderson autumn 17

I would also pick out JW Anderson, with his chain mail reinvented as colour blocked dresses and draped sashes. There was also an interesting take on the notion of shine with glossy satins.

Gareth Pugh autumn 17

Gareth Pugh autumn 17

Gareth Pugh autumn 17

And Gareth Pugh’s radical politically-charged, all black collection, showing the theme of resistance growing underneath London. It was all about shape and form with nipped in waists and powerful shoulders. Gareth is synonymous with tailoring.

What trends are emerging?

Mimi Wade at Fashion East autumn 17

Mimi Wade at Fashion East autumn 17

Mimi Wade at Fashion East autumn 17

The rise of the down jacket, which has continued on from the men’s collections was noticeable. Shearling jackets are also very important. There have also been references to the late 1970s, via corduroy and Prince of Wales check at the likes of Mimi Wade, and also Marc Jacobs in New York. Nods to the early 1980s - one shoulder and mini length pieces and ruching at JW Anderson were also interesting. Also florals, which we usually see for the spring or summer season. And lots of craft and mishmash of fabrics – seen at both Matty Bovan and JW Anderson.

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