London Collections: Men - Best of the rest AW13
The Hackett gent was sharp and smart this season, with a commercial collection that covered everything from dressed-down duffle coats and printed knitwear for country walks, to sophisticated tailoring fit for any elegant ball.
Another strong collection from Lou Dalton, one of London’s most consistent menswear mavens, blended a tailored look with workwear elements in which her outerwear proved the star of the show.
Oliver Spencer too produced a collection of covetable menswear for the modern man, toeing the line between smart and casual.
Mr Start kept things sleek, with a razor-sharp smartness on slim sb suits and dapper roll-necks.
The offering from YMC was a moody affair, with zippered trousers and a killer leather jacket teamed with an excellent array of knits.
It was an unexpectedly subdued outing for Meadham Kirchhoff, where black and white dominated on snappy buttoned-up waistcoats, high-waisted trousers and embroidered tunics that looked moth-eaten but were in fact delicately embroidered.
Margaret Howell did what she does best, updating and refining wardrobe staples for today’s man; tonal shades of grey were key, with a seafarer slant.
Martine Rose pushed proportion play, cropping jackets and exploding trouser widths teamed with on-trend faux fur-trimmed parkas and pieces patchworked from recycled beer mats.
Sibling created a headline-grabbing show with its oversized monster knits and mammoth mittens, but beneath
the pizazz of the performance were many great pieces. Fair Isle, graphic and leopard-print jumpers, cardigans, polo shirts and joggers all got top marks.
And a name to watch out for - Chinese designer Xander Zhou, who took smart military and sleek tailoring references to the street, making them fresh and cool for 2013.