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London Collections: Men – Autumn 14

The top trends and new season updates to look out for from London Collections: Men’s best shows.

  • Images provided by Catwalking

Oversized classics

Classic double-breasted coat styles were seen at many shows, with long knee-skimming options a key style. Neat and traditional cuts brought a smartly tailored theme to many ranges. However, some exaggerated the designs, dropping the length below the knee, making shoulders even boxier or widening lapels for an oversized look.

Chunky knits

Knitwear was pumped up this season, with boxy silhouettes turning super-chunky cable knits and oversized roll-necks into statement pieces. Furry mohair-like finishes and looser weaves added to the warm and cosy feel.

Padding and quilts

Padded and quilted jackets and coats lent a performance feel to collections, and moved the perennial heritage trend in a modern, outdoors direction. Teamed with sportswear and tailoring, top styles included a winter update on spring’s bomber jackets and longer-length coats.

Furry finishes

Whether real or faux, fur and shearling gave a luxurious spin to outerwear, from shearling at Burberry to fur trims at Astrid Andersen. It was mostly used on lining, trimming or panels.

Duffle

Toggle-closure duffle coats were another classic style bringing a smart touch to autumn 14 outerwear. Updated designs included versions reworked in new and unexpected materials, such as leather and bonded fabric styles at Topman, as well as coated wools and boiled tweeds at Christopher Raeburn.

Cord and velvet

Designers used velvet and corduroy as alternative fabric choices this season. Corduroy trousers looked new in slim, fitted cuts, and were used as an alternative to chinos and denim. Other designers created cord and velvet blazers and suits.

Check and tartan

Tailoring at LCM came covered in a wide variety of checks and tartans. The most noteworthy had a dark and muted palette, giving the patterns wearability and appealing to a broader range of customers. While full-patterned suits did feature, many designers opted for a printed blazer or trousers with a plain other half.

Black

Laura Southern, buyer for brands and concessions at Topman, noted the “dark and moody palette” of much of LCM, as many designers showed all-black layered looks. A somewhat safe and commercial trend with easy customer appeal, this also fed into the push on unusual and contrasting textures, bringing interest to completely black outfits.

BUYERS’ QUOTES

“James Long was on the money combining the sports luxe and futuristic trends. I loved all the mesh weave details and am mystified as to how he came up with the effects.”

  • Adrian Gibson, men’s casual and contemporary buyer, Harvey Nichols

“I loved Matthew Miller’s textured fabrics, which were very clean and wearable. We’re always looking for something a bit different and standout, but it always has to be wearable.”

  • Laura Southern, buyer for brands and concessions, Topman

“I really liked Richard Nicoll’s collection, it was really polished and marked a new step with a very strong message and strong outerwear. There have been safe collections but also some bolder ones, giving a good balance.”

  • Mei Chung, menswear buyer, Browns

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