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London Collections: Men, Day One Highlights

Associate fashion editor Graeme Moran picks the highlights from the first day of LCM.

Topman Design provided the spectacle of the day, with a finale of pouring rain that drenched the models. It was a sleek range of standout chunky knitwear, leather panelled oversized outerwear and directional wipe-clean fabrics. Exaggerated coats came in SB and DB styles, cut boxy, wide and low, while updates on the commercial duffel coat promise to appeal. Top buys: the furry oversized knitwear.

Lou Dalton – the Shropshire-born designer showed a clothes that merged a country farm-hard uniform meets modern urban gent, full of strong and wearable pieces. Corduroy, baggy bleached denim and signature furry knit separates came layered under precisely-cut oversized outerwear or short jackets, some with removable shearling collars. Top buys: the pea coats and inside-out fair isle knits.

John Smedley – bold graphic geometric patterns and an punchy autumnal palette updated Smedley’s latest winter offer. Top buys: focus on polo neck options and the textured shawl neck knit cardigan.

Richard Nicoll – a lesson in perfect colour combinations bought life to one of Nicoll’s most diverse menswear shows to date, which featured some of the strongest outerwear styles of the day, including furry trimmed wool duster coats, wide lapel 6DB knee length pea coats and cropped leather panelled jackets. Top buys: while the frilled shirting might not have the widest appeal, much of the rest of the collection will catch the eye of shoppers.

Matthew Miller – a new sense of polish refreshed Millers autumn 14 collection, with his chunky knits sure to be popular, while his take on fresh tailoring and sturdy leather outerwear were other highlights. Top buys: the leather biker jacket updates and commercial slogan jumper.

Lee Roach – strictly minimal and clinically sharp, Roach produced another range of edgily modern tailoring that he is becoming known for. With a focus on black, peppered with dark khaki green and cream, this collection came with a more approachable, wearable vision than previous seasons. Top buys:  the collarless, simplified overcoat of soft wool.

Jonathan Saunders – another winning collection from the Scot, which included a diverse range of finished and fabrics, from glitter panel, latex tape stripes, oversized arun knits, delicate floral-like patterns and stellar leather outwear. It shouldn’t have worked as well as it did, but some Saunders made it come together once again. Top buys: not many people can beat Saunders knitwear and much of this collection will keep his loyal customers happy.

Craig Green  - deconstruct this new designer’s often complicated catwalk looks and you’ll find precisely cut menswear and fresh updates to the classic wardrobe staples. There’s well cut shapes and lovely knits all with Green’s sleek take on a DIY finish. Top buy: Green’s patchwork, raw-edged panelled knits.

Astrid Andersen – her trademarks scored again, with sportswear straight from the street juxtaposed with signature super luxe and feminine touches, such as autumn 14’s cropped baseball and basketball tops trimmed or covered in fur and layered over lace. Top buy: the bomber jacket with oversized pocket details and removable sleeves.

Alan Taylor - signature reinterpretations of traditional tailoring took a graphic direction this season, while hugely exaggeration oversized outerwear ticking the trend box, in both floor skimming SB and DB styles seen. Top buys: the collaged tailoring and knee length DB overcoat.

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