Day three saw London’s big names and rising stars take to the catwalk, Graeme Moran picks his highlights.
Burberry Prorsum – A Painterly Journey was Christopher Bailey’s title this season, featuring sturdy masculine outerwear and chunky knits off set with silken scarves and loose shirts blooming with arts and craft-style winter florals. Leather came hand painted and tassels adorned jackets fuzzed up with shearling. Another strong and appealing collection with enough off kilter Bailey charm to keep it interesting. Best buys: I predict this collection will be a winner for Burberry, with a great balance of desirable menswear staples and hero pieces.
Agi and Sam – recent winners of the British Fashion Award for best emerging menswear designers, Agi and Sam moved away from their signature bold colour for a strictly monochrome black and white collection that had a polish and maturity that was refreshing. The duos prints were still present, thankfully, riffing on Masai checks in varying scales, as suits and strong DB coats came with flowing elongated shirt and shift layers. Best buys: the longline outerwear, minimal tailoring and foiled logo jumpers.
E Tautz – Patrick Grant’s ready-to-wear label showed one of the strongest collections to date, confirming its reputation for stand-out outerwear and a fresh take on tailoring. Colour was black, camel and grey pepped up with rich red and inky blue. Best buys: the knee length coats, the colour blocked jumpers and smart take on biker jackets.
Sibling – the knit-focused trio provided another fun show, with trademark jumpers and cardigans coming with fuzzy finishes and signature leopard print patterns. Best buys: arun sweaters with furry knit strands, webby loose weave pieces and the brand’s reworked leopard pieces.
Kent and Curwen – designer Simon Spurr breathed life into the brand for autumn 14, focusing on luxed up, fresh take on menswear classics. Top buys: the duffel and pea coats in olive, camel and navy, the houndstooth knit jumper and luxurious leather pieces.
Christopher Shannon – the Liverpudlian designer focused his eye on the rise of the tracksuit this seasonl, with a colourful collection that was another step forward. The introduction of heavier outerwear including puffer-style jackets was good to see, while his statement sweaters are sure to be winners again. The bold floral prints won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but his loyal buyers seemed impressed. Best buys: signature fun knits and Shannon tracksuits.