A round-up of day four of LCM, including Burberry’s lace-filled menswear collection.
Titled ‘Strait Laced’, Christopher Bailey’s spring 16 collection for Burberry Prorsum balanced the classic and conventional with the unusual and unexpected, as he reinterpreted the brand’s signature through directional use of fabrics to lend a dandyish, almost androgynous element.
On one hand, the collection’s title referred to the rather classic nature of the majority of the clothes – mainly variations on simple everyday slim suits, shirts and skinny tie combinations, signature check-lined lightweight trench coats and sober double-breasted cashmere overcoats, all neatly tailored and pretty strait-laced.
However, in typical playful Burberry style the title also referenced Bailey’s use of lace in all its forms to subvert these classic pieces. Somewhat unusual for a menswear range, there were delicate and diaphanous cotton laces used as thin, barely-there tops layered under blazer jackets, and heavier, more intricate guipure or broderie anglaise-like laces as airy button-up shirts, matching ties. It was even on outerwear, sometimes embellishing top collars or used all over as a breezy remake of the trench.
A new silhouette was also introduced for spring 16 called The Chelsea. This tailored slim fit was seen across trench coats and suiting for the new season, alongside knitted joggers and quilted lightweight down jackets that brought a new more casual, dressed-down look.
There was also a relaxed lightness at E Tautz, where designer and tailor Patrick Grant moved away from the brand’s signature suiting and focused on a leisurewear look with a 1950s feel. Long, super-lightweight parkas, roomy over-the-head anoraks and boxy wide-collared Harrington jackets were the standout outerwear pieces. These came layered for summer rain with equally wide-collared shirts, zip-through shirt-jackets and single-breasted casual jackets on top and pintuck shorts and wide trousers below.
Eastern influences have been seen at several London shows this season, including Astrid Andersen and Craig Green, so it made sense that Chinese designer Xander Zhou decided to explore his cultural heritage for spring 16. Oriental prints played an important role in the collection, whether patchworked on sporty sweatshirts and tabards, or in full looks composed of handkerchief tops and matching trousers.
Aiming to capture the rebellious side of the1950s, designer Katie Eary sought inspiration in Elvis Presley, whose wholesome appearance belied his latent sexuality. In the collection, this manifested itself in classic pieces such as the bomber jacket and bowling shirt reimagined in a bright, acidic ombré palette. A recurring cartoonish print was a subversive take on the iconic 1980s favourite ‘My Little Pony.