Including JW Anderson’s raw denim, Richard James’ verdant green and Christopher Raeburn’s trek to Borneo.
Androgyny is nothing new for Northern Irish designer JW Anderson – the halter-neck tops and frilly shorts of his autumn 15 show grabbed headlines in the fashion press and beyond – but this season it felt softer and more wearable. Crafted mostly from raw denim and calico, the paper-bag trousers and draped funnel-neck tops felt modern and luxurious, while intarsia knits in space-age prints lent the collection a playful edge.
Understated elegance is the Margaret Howell signature, and this season was no different. From light linen tailoring to knitwear to crisp cotton shirting in the designer’s go-to palette of black, white, navy and grey, the collection was full of wardrobe staples that would appeal to a wide variety of shoppers.
A colour trend that has stood out at several shows already this season was most visible at Richard James today, where verdant green straight from the tropical jungle appeared on light and breezy suiting in wool, mohair, cotton and linen blends – some in sb shapes or wide-lapelled db cuts. Sporty bomber and Harrington jackets lent a casual feel, while a suede trench brought some luxury. Playfully garish tropical floral prints and patterns appeared throughout, particularly on a bold matching suit, shirt, tie and shoe combo.
Christopher Raeburn presented one of his most fully formed collections to date for spring, expanding well beyond his signature outerwear. Inspiration this season came from anthropologist Tom Harrisson and his exploration of Borneo, which translated into printed maps of the island across tops and patterns formed from silhouettes of its most famous resident, the orangutan, which climbed across sweatshirts, intarsia knits and heat flocked T-shirts. There were bomber jackets, anoraks, parkas and capes ‘remade’ using military surplus. There were T-shirts, shirts, vests, sweaters, joggers and knits, as well as an expanded accessories offer. There were even sarongs - something for everyone.