Spring 16 collections from the likes of Lou Dalton, Astrid Andersen, Sibling and Hardy Amies.
Flashy, logo-covered streetwear is what Danish designer Astrid Andersen is known for, but this season’s palette of pastel shades, as well as a delicate floral print, felt fresh and new. Inspired by the cult 1990s film Big Trouble in Little China, as well as Andersen’s recent trip to Shanghai, the collection had a stong oriental undertone, which came through in pieces such as a judo-style jacket tied at the waist.
Taking his cue from astronauts and aviators, designer Mehmet Ali’s collection for Hardy Amies had a slick, space-age feel. Though tailoring is naturally an important element for the Savile Row brand, technical fabrics and flashes of neon lent the collection a futuristic feel. Layering was key here, with sporty bomber jackets layered over suits and a utility-esque boiler suit unzipped to the waist to reveal a shirt and tie underneath.
It was all about jocks and cheerleaders at Sibling’s Americana-heavy show, which featured men in sequined American football kits and women in tiny miniskirts bearing pom-poms. The collection on the whole will be too directional for the average shopper, but there were some more wearable pieces still with touches of the humour that the London brand is known for, such as parkas with colourful pom-pom trimmed hoods.
There was a utility element to Lou Dalton’s spring collection, where roomy pockets adorned neat Harrington jackets, pilot-style vests and knee-length shorts. A classic blue and white gingham was distorted and abstracted across knits, shirts and lightweight jackets, or redone in a bright orange and contrasted with a smart Prince of Wales check.
Loose shapes were key at Agi & Sam, with wide knee-length shorts and louche trousers worn with pared-back jackets and tops. Fabrics included thick denim, leather and wide corduroy but were used in unexpected ways, such as denim jumpers and sporty leather tops, while various gradients of stripes nodded to the designer duo’s signature use of print and pattern.
Summer suede and light chambray were central fabric elements in YMC’s spring offering, appearing on pared-back bomber-style jackets and wide-cut trousers. An update on camo pattern adorned shirts and shorts, while light unlined tailoring was given a casual, sporty feel thanks to drawstring waist detailing.