Browns senior menswear buyer Lee Goldup analyses the final day of LCM, revealing his highlights and new labels to know.
How was day four at London Collections Men spring 17?
Today definitely felt a little quieter with it being the last day and our schedule wasn’t as hectic as on the previous days. The bad weather definitely didn’t help. In general though, it’s been very busy over the weekend. There were times when I felt the schedule could have been organised better, as I missed things I intended to see that were on opposite sides of London.
What do you come to London Collections Men hoping or expecting to find?
I come to LCM to see what the both the newly graduated and more established British designers are up to. With it being first on the men’s fashion calendar it’s also good to see what trends are emerging.
Which shows stood out today?
Mihara Yasuhiro, Kiko Kostadinov, Liam Hodges
This morning I saw Mihara Yasuhiro which is a brand we carry at Browns. Having not shown in London before I think the venue choice was really important for them and the Bloomsbury Bowling Alley was perfect. The music choice for the show fitted perfectly with the venue and the collections 1950’s inspired aesthetic.
Following that I saw the Kiko Kostadinov presentation which was something I’d been looking forward to all weekend and the collection didn’t disappoint. I really liked how simple and minimal the collection was yet you could see how excellently it was cut. The workwear and utilitarian reference points were clear yet understated and executed very well.
I also saw Liam Hodges’ show which I thought was his best yet. The collaboration with Dickies which ran throughout the collection was really interesting and fitted well with the oversized bomber jackets and jersey pieces.
Were there any new or emerging brands you were impressed by this season?
The newer designers I was most impressed with were Fen Cheng Wang, Kiko Kostadinov and Wales Bonner.
Kiko Kostadinov, Fen Cheng Wang and Wales Bonner
What trends have you seen emerging?
Both sportswear and oversized have been very evident again this season, which are trends we bought into at Brown for autumn 16. There also seemed to be a heavy Vetements influence on a few of the designers ideas with an experimental take on functional wear.