Harvey Nichols’ head of menswear Darren Skey reveals his standout shows and labels to watch from the first day of LCM spring 17.
How was day one at London Collections Men spring 17?
There was a pretty buoyant feeling today among the show crowds, creating a buzz through the local and international buyers and press. If I had to criticise one thing, it would be the London traffic: getting from show to show can be tricky but it adds to the excitement of the event. It wouldn’t be show season if you weren’t running around all day.
Which shows stood out today?
The Craig Green show was by far the strongest show of day one. The London designer showed an amazing use of fabrics in a fresh, washed-out colour palette. He used oversized stitching that played with the dimensions and silhouettes of each look. From a more commercial perspective, Oliver Spencer showcased some strong day suits for the everyday guy. The Common Sweden presentation was also a strong collection, with a great colour palette, including an amazing dusty pink denim jacket.
What do you come to London Collections Men for?
For Harvey Nichols, London Collections Men is about supporting the brands we currently stock, and looking out for new labels and emerging talent we want to help bring to market. We’re specifically looking to see designers push the boundaries, mixing their creative energy with that commercial edge.
What new or emerging brands stood out?
I thought the Phoebe English show was really interesting and showed a lot of promise.
What trends have you noticed so far?
It’s a bit early to determine what the key trends for spring 17 will be, however we saw split-legged pants from Topman and Craig Green, which may develop over the next couple of days as an emerging trend for the next season. Colour-wise, it’s looking quite rosy, with washed-out pinks, reds and peaches offering a softer colour palette for menswear next summer.