Mr Porter’s buyer Daniel Todd on the stand out shows and new names to watch from the spring 17 edition of LCM so far.
How was day three at London Collections Men spring 17?
I don’t think the weather helped peoples’ movements throughout the city, but on the whole people were positive and braving the rain. [Musician] ASAP Rocky even got up early on a Sunday for JW Anderson.
What do you come to London Collections Men expecting or hoping to find?
One of the strengths of London Collections Men is its willingness to showcase new talent through platforms such as MAN and Fashion East. Last season, I thought Grace Wales Bonner was one of the standout shows and this season I’m very excited to see Kiko Kostadinov’s presentation on Monday morning.
Which shows stood out today?
Like ASAP Rocky, I started the day at JW Anderson, which is always one of the most anticipated shows on the schedule. Inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupery’s The Little Prince, the soundtrack and unconventional runway layout gave the show a sense of drama. The layered sweaters with almost cartoonishly long sleeves alongside the opening cropped trench, were probably the hero pieces - although my personal favourite was the Harrington jacket with the contest ribbed hem.
Margaret Howell’s collections, in my opinion, are virtually impossible not to like – and this was apparent again this season. It’s not the most dramatic show on the schedule, but that’s the beauty of the brand. It’s certainly one of the shows I look forward to each season and when we’re doing our end of season trend round up, Margaret Howell’s collections are one of our key references. Key pieces included a fisherman’s hat and rain mac – perfect for today’s unpredictable weather.
After her show at MAN last season, I was excited to see the Grace Wales Bonner show. I thought it was a really accomplished solo debut and the collection had a real sense of elegance and grace - no pun intended.
Were there any new or emerging brands that impressed by today?
Grace Wales Bonner certainly has a bright future ahead of her, whilst I’m expecting great things from Kiko Kostadinov on day four.
What trends stood out today?
There were strong colours at JW Anderson this morning – like the pink and yellow layered jumper and crimson trench - but I feel Craig Green has been the standout show for use of colour so far this season. Both the pop colour styles and his bleached out equivalents looked incredible on the catwalk.
From left: JW Anderson, Craig Green, Craig Green