BLUSHING BOYS: (From left: Craig Green, Cottweiler, Pieter, Topman) From dusty pale creams through to pastel pinks and peach, a new palette emerged in London, full of soft and delicate colours. They were bleached-out and faded in Neapolitan ice cream shades at Craig Green, brighter and contrasted with brown and beige at Topman and Cottweiler, and at their pinkest by Pieter and YMC.
GREEN DREAM: (From left Barbour, Nigel Cabourn, E Tautz, YMC) Possibly more commercial than the washed-out pinky pastel trend, a palette of greens caught Drapers’ eye and offers a nice alternative to perennial blues for men. Khaki and olive variations were the most common and also play well into the utility direction of some collections, while full-out_it tonal looks are a way to buy and merchandise the trend.
UTILITY VEHICLES: (from left Phoebe English, Kiki Kostadinov, Christopher Raeburn, Tourne de Transmission) Many designers spoke of uniforms as inspiration for the new season. Boxy jackets and coats were key, often featuring statement patch pockets. Some were minimal and simple in shape and worked in sturdy cotton canvas, as at Kiko Kostadinov (who made his LCM debut for spring 17), or more functional and in techy fabrics, used by Christopher Raeburn.
LAYING LINES: (from left Lou Dalton, Katie Eary, Oliver Spencer, Tiger of Sweden) While ginghams and checks cropped up a lot see Hardy Amies, Mackintosh and Astrid Andersen, stripes emerged as the key pattern. Updates to note: the variegated verticals in contrasting colours at Lou Dalton, the blocked zig-zag versions at Katie Eary or the co-ordinating combos across matching items at Tiger of Sweden. See Sibling, E Tautz, Phoebe English and Craig Green for more.
TRACK STARS: (from left Bobby Abley, Astrid Andersen, Nasir Mazhar, Christopher Shannon) London is known for a team of designers whose focus often falls on a sportswear-inspired wardrobe and, for spring, zip-up funnel-neck or hooded jackets and co-ordinating roomy trousers – or tracksuits – were everywhere. They had a retro vibe at Astrid Andersen and Christopher Shannon, where they also came in denim, in techy functional fabrics at Nasir Mazhar and with cropped waists by Bobby Abley.
SHORTS STORIES: (from left Feng Chen Wang, Christopher Shannon, E Tautz, Ximon Lee) By day two of the spring shows, Matchesfashion.com’s head of menswear, Damien Paul, had already declared shorts a key buy for the new season, commenting on the amount of skin on show in London. Most of the standout short styles came extra-short and roomy, smartly tailored by E Tautz or with a retro sportiness at Christopher Shannon.
BORN IN THE USA: (from left CMMN SWDN, Coach, Maison Mihara Yasuhiro, Topman) There were American references aplenty in London, with both Coach and Maison Mihara Yasuhiro (which made the move from Paris fashion week to London this season) focusing on retro cowboys and leather-clad rebels. The most commercial aspect of the trend was the panelled spread-collar cowboy shirts, also seen at Common Sweden and Topman.
LIVING EXTRA LARGE: (from left JW Anderson, Liam Hodges, Rory Parnell Mooney, Xander Zhou) Some might call it the effect of Paris-based brand of the moment Vetements, but oversized shapes and extra-large silhouettes similar to its signature styles were all over the catwalks in London. The most common examples were elongated sleeves, trailing from long hoodies and jumpers, while pumped-up bomber jackets and wide, baggy shorts and trousers were further expressions.
WOMEN’S MOVEMENT: (from left Astrid Andersen, Casely Hayford, Matthew Miller, Sibling) Despite this being menswear week, there was a furry of womenswear on show for spring. Sibling held its first combined men’s and women’s collection, having made the decision to ditch its London Fashion Week show. Astrid Andersen and Casely-Hayford also debuted womenswear, while Agi & Sam, Wales Bonner and Matthew Miller also had some looks for women in their collections.