Christopher Raeburn’s show plus other highlights from day one, including Amanda Wakeley, Fyodor Golan and Eudon Choi
Christopher Raeburn presented the stand out show from day one of the spring 15 edition of London fashion week, moving his now fully matured womenswear collection firmly out of the shadow of his menswear range. For spring, the clothes were lighter, softer and more feminine. More colour appeared too, in bright pinks with navy, white and khaki. Sheer fabrics added airiness, particularly standing out as contrast sleeves on signature bomber jackets. Shirt dresses, swishy tailored trousers and loosely peplumed dresses looked fresh.
Equally, LFW’s opening designer Korean-born JJS Lee soften her style, loosening her cool, minimal approach with a more feminine feel. She even introduced print for the first time, turning her hand to florals – a move which may well catch the eyes of wider sets of buyers.
Amanda Wakeley described her collection as sports luxe chic, bringing together airy mesh knits and simple sporty separates with plush leather, supple suede and premium snakeskin. Wrapped detailing (a trend spotted on the New York catwalks), appeared on skirts, dresses and jackets belted with judo belts, all in a spotless white palette.
New name on the London fashion week schedule and first-time recipient of Topshop’s New Gen sponsorship programme, Faustine Steinmetz continued her reinterpretation of classic denim jeans from previous capsule collections. Frayed denim strands were gathered and glued to create a delicate couture-like fabric that was then manipulated into everyday jean and denim jacket shapes. Steinmetz’s innovative and creative eye is one to watch for the future.
A second new brand on the schedule saw Hannah Weiland unveil her first full offering from label Shrimps, her faux fur outerwear brand that has garnered a cult following in London. While spring isn’t the best season to showcase chunky furry outerwear, her fun use of colour, irreverent approach to using fuzzy fake fur and extended accessories offer will keep buyers happy.
A third brand to make its debut on the official London fashion week schedule was Teatum Jones, with hips the focus thanks to nipped waists that ballooned into tulip skirts and full, wide trousers. The presentation’s exuberant gospel choir certainly stole the show.
Eudon Choi’s show notes described his collection as a “homage to the beauty and power of simplicity”, showing a pared back collection of simple tailoring, loose peplum hems and delicate florals. Choi’s star is on the rise thanks to his wearable yet interesting designs, such as the double panels enveloping the backs of tailored jackets, voluminous sleeve shirts and apron-inspired dresses.
There were signature handcrafted styles from Bora Aksu, whose ballet inspired range featured pretty dresses complete with handmade crochet and delicate embroidery.
Felder Felder produced a more commercial range for spring, with a rock and roll meets western style that falls in line with the festival inspired retro rocker looks seen at Tommy Hilfiger and Anna Sui. The sisters are also bringing the cowboy boot back for spring.
Fyodor Golan’s polished production buzzed with neon shades and the duo’s signature embroidery and embellishment, with their directional silhouettes and experiemental shapes dripping with a street style-inspired attitude, complete with piles of embellishment, shimmer and shine, as well as a footwear collaboration with Kat Maconie.
New York’s big monochrome trend landed in London via Jean Pierre Braganza, with the brand’s sharp-edged take on tailoring coming spliced in graphic black, white and grey paneling.