The final day of London Fashion Week drew to a close with a stand-out show from Marques Almeida, alongside Toga and Isa Arfen.
As winners of the 2015 LVHM Prize, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida’s womenswear brand goes from strength to strength.
The pair’s punky street-wise signatures were all here, but moved on and updated in a way that will keep their dedicated shoppers shopping. This included their much-copied denim, all raw hems and frayed edges, this season in looser, baggier trouser styles with a cuffed leg and flared ankle or oversized belted denim coats.
Hitting London’s spring trends right on the head but in their own way, there were sophisticated and equally cool lace trimmed lingerie style slip dresses, knicker shorts and tops. There was a nod to grand old classical dressing with leg of mutton sleeves on jackets, shirts and jumpsuits, and a stand out jacket with Baroque puffed up peplum and three-quarter length bell sleeves, all in a wonderful William Morris florals.
More trends were ticked off – bold black and white stripes on super-oversized shirting and slim, cropped trousers, asymmetric skirts and dresses, and wiggles of ruffles, as well as statement shirting elevated by even more statement-making puffed up sleeves.
Japanese designer Yasuko Furuta imbues her Togo collections with a certain oddness, which sometimes comes across as too directional, but can also turn key pieces into fashion forward yet wearable statement-makers that continue to catch buyer’s eyes.
There was watery theme at play, which dripped from iridescent patent trousers and to pools of shiny splodges on boxy suiting and mannish shirting.
The oddness updated slim trousers and short skirts with wavy, dripping hems – a quirky yet wearable update to scalloped hems.
Summery ribbed knits also cropped up, as tight little shoulder-strapped corsets or intricately knitted bralettes.
Gingham, an emerging spring 17 trend, was here in abundance, coated on chopped-up dresses or featuring as panels on asymmetrical dresses – another trend to watch – which came with mismatched fabric skirt panels.
Bold primary colours and painterly patterns were given a feminine spin brimming with demure insouciance at Isa Arfen for spring 17. Relaxed, soft tailored shapes and longer hem lengths gave the collection a 1950s feel, with a modern twist provided by the bright colours and loosened silhouettes.
Fresh, zesty tones punctuated a base of monochrome and neutrals, with key pieces appearing in bold, eye-catching tones. The tomato red trench coat, paired with cobalt blue trousers were a particular highlight.
The sketchbook style designs were inspired by tribal body painting, and gave the collection an earthy femininity and fragility thanks to their delicate lines. This sense of fragility was continued in the intricately cut-out-fronted gown, skirt and jacket, as well as the ruffled, off-shoulder chiffons and dresses.
Both sheer chiffons and ruffles appeared in the collection, as did long, sweeping trench coats – all of which were strong trends from the spring 17 shows in London.
Tata Naka transported its collection to the Capri sunshine for spring 17, with an Italian glamour and elegance throughout the collection. Mosaic-patterned cotton dresses seemed destined for warmer climates, and bandeau shapes and 1950s sundresses lent a feminine and glamorous silhouette.
Colours were bold and bright, and paired alongside muted whites, with jewel toned patterns and ceramic inspired prints and shaping encapsulating the feel of a bygone era on the Italian Riviera.
The collection held a sense of luxurious femininity encapsulated by designers such as Dolce & Gabbana, and this collection seemed to pay homage to a similar kind of exuberant, Italian woman but with a softer, more relaxed aesthetic.
Relaxed, ladylike shapes and elegant sheer gowns in muted tones of blue and turquoise formed the core of Wakeley’s spring collection. Brushstroke ombre and luxe denims created a sophisticated and relaxed aesthetic, with softly tailored shapes and jackets in cool blue and neutral tones. Raw edges on the sleek shaped separates added to the more relaxed feel of the collection.
Key pieces in the more casual items included a jacquard embellished jacket and the jacquard brushstroke wide leg trousers. Another key feature of the collection came in the formal gowns, with Grecian draped dresses in pale blues and turquoise sheer chiffon creating a delicate, elegant yet daring look. This sheer motif was reflected in a softly structured gauzy maxi-top – an item which has appeared on the catwalks at Osman and Molly Goddard. The collection seemed a move towards more trend focused designs, whilst retaining the classic shapes and sophisticated silhouettes which make Wakeley popular with customers.