On a day filled with big name brands, Ida Petersson, menswear and womenswear buying director at luxury store Browns, shares her highlights from the day.
Day four of London Fashion Week brought theatrics, elegance, vibrant colour and a healthy dose of glamour.
Roksanda, Erdem, JW Anderson, Christopher Kane and Burberry – some of Britain’s biggest names – all showed their collections today, proving London’s importance as a fashion capital for creative young talent and big businesses alike.
Alongside the big names, smaller designers also stood out: there was a strong, sensual debut catwalk collection from Supriya Lele and a mature take on evening glamour from Huishan Zhang. Richard Malone, whose collection included a collaboration with footwear brand Malone Souliers, also flew the flag for strong emerging talent.
Pleats, ruching, tonal neutrals and sheer fabrications were once again popular through the day. Colour pops are also emerging as a trend with super vibrant shades contrasting to otherwise softer palettes.
The eco-message of the week, encouraged by the British Fashion Council’s Positive Fashion exhibition also continued. Christopher Kane’s surrealist take on nature featured slogans such as “Make love to the wind” and Richard Malone also took a sustainable spin, using recycled materials in the collection.
As a finale to a strong day, Richard Quinn hosted a dramatic showcase in Bethnal Green, east London, complete with choir and orchestra. The spectacular show featured Quinn’s characteristic floral exuberance as well as a bridal capsule dripping in glitz.
- Catch up on the highlights from days one, two and three at London Fashion Week with more of Drapers’ buyer diaries.
Ida Petersson, menswear and womenswear buying director at Browns, shares her highlights from the day
Why do you attend LFW?
I’ve always enjoyed London Fashion Week: for me it is on par with Paris Fashion. The design talent here is on another level, and you can really feel the energy that London designers have to offer.
Are there any LFW brands that currently perform well for you?
It feels like our customers are embracing British talent more than ever this season with Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Asai, Supriya Lele and Roland Mouret being some of our best performing brands.
What are you looking for in the LFW shows this season?
I’m always excited to see what the new talent has to offer and I also always enjoy seeing what the established designers bring to the table for the new season.
How was today at LFW?
It’s been a strong day with great energy.
Which collections stood out this LFW today and so far this season?
Richard Quinn and Simone Rocha have been my absolute favourites alongside stellar collections from Molly Goddard, AWAKE and Supriya Lele. I also loved the talent displayed through the BFC at the Positive Fashion display.
Are there any trends or must buys emerging from the collections so far?
Yes definitely, I’ve noticed that palate-cleanser colours such as beige and neutrals seem to be reigning supreme so far. This was also a trend in New York. These colour combinations are often paired with a strong pop colour like coral, “Kermit” green or purple.
We’ve also seen a lot of voluminous above-the-knee and knee-length dresses, a trend that started in Copenhagen in August. Flares have also been another trend: they seem to be making a steady comeback.
How were the New York shows?
R13 and Collina Strada were my two favourites alongside Marc Jacobs, which is always a vision.
Are there any designers you are looking forward to seeing in the international collections?
I can’t wait for Bottega Veneta and Marine Serre. I’m also really excited about Shuting Qiu, who is showing in Milan for the first time.
London Fashion Week: day four, buyer diary