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London Fashion Week: day one, buyer diary

The autumn 18 edition of London Fashion Week kicked off with a packed day of shows. Stavros Karelis, buying director of London store Machine A, reveals his highlights, including Matty Bovan, and new graduates Liam Jonson and Laura and Deanna Fanning.

The first day of London Fashion Week showed exactly what the city does best: celebrating what the British Fashion Council’s CEO Caroline Rush called London’s “depth and breadth” of innovative and inspiring British talent.

This started with London’s top students taking to the catwalk as part of both Westminster and Central Saint Martins universities’ BA and MA course graduate showcases. There was also the likes of Richard Malone and Matty Bovan, who both kicked off the autumn 18 edition of LFW with their first solo catwalk presentations, through to businesses like Mulberry, the brand which was founded in the 1970s but today, under the creative direction of Johnny Coca, put on its first “see now, buy now”, direct to consumer show, which saw items from the spring 18 collection sold online straight from the catwalk.

Rmal rtw fw18 0454

Rmal rtw fw18 0454

Richard Malone, autumn 18

Stavros Karelis, founder and buying director of London designer independent Machine A, discusses his stand out shows from day one:

Why do you attend London Fashion Week?

LFW is the only fashion week in the world that has such a vast number of emerging talents and designers due to the support of British Fashion Council and different initiatives such as NewGen and Fashion East, as well as some of the best universities in the world based here like Central Saint Martins, Royal College of Art and Westminster. For that reason, London is heavily involved with showcasing the best of emerging designers, so for me as a buying director of a London store, it is essential to attend LFW and discover all these great talents.

What collections have stood out in London today?

I would say Matty Bovan was a beautiful show with such a great energy and most importantly represents what London is about. The Westminster university show was really strong too, with the graduate collection of Dillan Chipchase standing out. But ultimately the Central Saint Martins MA show is one of the best shows of the season always, and particularly this season was one of the best I have ever seen; the head of the MA course Fabio Piras has done an incredible job with so many graduates that were absolutely fantastic; I was mesmerised by the collections of Liam Jonson and Laura and Deanna Fanning.

Have any colours, trends or themes emerged from the day?

Tailoring is strong this season, however whoever seeks homogenous trends and themes in London won’t find them as London and its designers celebrate diversity and individuality.

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Bova rtw fw18 0448

Matty Bovan, autumn 18

Are there any shows you’re particularly looking forward to over the rest of the week?

Fashion East, Richard Quinn, Paula Knorr, Molly Goddard, Halpern and MM6 Maison Margiela.

New York Fashion Week has just finished. What stood out from the American shows?

I think that Raf Simons with his own brand as well as Calvin Klein dominated New York Fashion Week. They were both brilliant shows. With his namesake brand giving the nod to the youth culture and sending a message to his loyal fans of educating and reading before engaging with drugs culture and for Calvin Klein, reimagining American archetypes such as freedom and democracy with his unique vision.

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Klei rtw aw18 0822

Calvin Klein, autumn 18

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