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London Fashion Week: day one, buyer diary

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London Fashion Week (LFW) kicked off its autumn 19 edition with a first day packed with creativity and new names. Stavros Karelis, buying director of London store Machine A, shares his highlights.

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Ashley Williams, autumn 19

Day one of London Fashion Week (LFW) dawned with a strong showing from new talent and established names alike. Former Fashion East brand Asai made its solo catwalk debut and newcomer 16Arlington showed its first LFW presentation. The up-and-coming designer Matty Bovan was one of the most anticipated shows of the day, while Zilver also garnered a buzzy response for its sophisticated, entirely sustainable collection.

London’s creative design talent was also on display at perennial London favourites Ashley Williams and Ryan Lo – with animal prints, heritage checks and puffer jackets emerging as early trends.

A creative and eclectic day was rounded off by the Central Saint Martin’s MA graduate show: a renowned hotbed of future design talent.

Buying director of London store Machine-A, Stavros Karelis, shares his highlights from the day.

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Matty Bovan, autumn 19

Why do you attend LFW?

LFW is the absolute “must attend” for anyone who wants to see all the latest trends, discover the emerging designers and the ones that make the difference. As a buying director, this is very important to find the designers that will make our buying and offering to our customers stand out from anyone else. 

What are you looking for in the LFW shows this season?

It is always about new talent but also a great story that each one has to tell. Product – as good as it is – is not enough any more. We connect with principles, we identify ourselves with the designer’s story and that is very important to me.

How was today at LFW?

Really busy. Great diverse talents, with so many good ones to watch.

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Sheryn Akiki, Central Saint Martins MA

What collections stood out on day one?

Asai, Matty Bovan, and the Central Saint Martin’s MA Show: my absolute highlight of the season, where you see all the future designers and where trends are created. Goom Heo and Sheryn Akiki were incredible.

Are there any trends or must buys emerging from the collections so far?

I think it is a mix of fabrics, couture, street, utilitarian and rich colours. There is actually a full force on individuality and independence. A great offering for different tastes.

What shows are you looking forward to in the international shows?

In Paris: Y/Project, Noir by KeiNinomiya and of course Maison Margiela.


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