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London Fashion Week: day three, buyer diary

Rpyo rtw fw18 0705

On day three of London Fashion Week, Harvey Nichol’s head of womenswear Hazel Catterall shares her highlights from the day, and the season so far.

After day two’s Burberry blockbuster on day two, up and coming womenswear designer Rejina Pyo kicked off proceedings bright and early on the third day of London Fashion Week autumn 18, as she presented her second catwalk show in London’s historic Burlington Arcade, with her signature sculptural outline creating a modern, tailored and feminine collection, which charmed with it’s wearable, elevated allure. This season the brand expanded its footwear offer, with snakeskin cowboy flats and metallic heeled boots standing out. Trench coats and longline checked skirts were also highlights.

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Pree rtw fw18 0687

Preen autumn 18

Fellow new talents Palmer Harding also showed off its shirting skills today, and Fashion East presented four of the capital’s freshest emerging creatives, with collections from Asai, Supriya Lele, Charlotte Knowles and Symonds Pearmain showcasing London’s knack for nurturing new and exciting talents.

The stand out collections from day three came from Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, in an underwater adventure brimming with elegant dresses, intricate detailing and fresh takes on florals and rainwear, and Ashish, whose rainbow sequin symphony shone with eclectic cultural references from disco to New Delhi.

The shimmer continued at Huishan Zhang and Temperley London, both of which also presented iridescent and highly feminine offerings for autumn 18, while Mary Katrantzou clashed Bauhaus clean lines with embroideries and tapestries with an air of high Victoriana.

Providing a more toned down approach was Margaret Howell’s muted uniform of separates and Roland Mouret, who eschewed his typical focus on dresses for a more tailored mixed with athleisure approach.

Drapers spoke to Hazel Catterall, head of womenswear for luxury department store Harvey Nichols, to find out her thoughts on the busy day.

Hazel catterall head of womenswear

Hazel catterall head of womenswear

Hazel Catterall

Why do you attend London Fashion Week?

London always has an undeniable buzz and energy, which isn’t found in any of the other fashion capitals. I think it’s really important that as a UK store we support our designers and London’s place on the fashion calendar.

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Mour rtw fw18 0554

Roland Mouret autumn 18

What collections have stood out in London so far?

Yesterday was all about Christopher Bailey’s last collection for Burberry, but I really liked JW Anderson’s modern take on understated utility and signature knits.

How was today at LFW?

My favourite today was Rejina Pyo. She presented a beautiful collection as always – my standout pieces were the block colour dress and the great outerwear in soft shades. Preen is always one of my top shows and they sent out beautiful dress after beautiful dress - I wanted them all. Roland Mouret showed a more sporty take this season, sexy separates complimented fluid dresses, splashes of red, yellow and orange struck an upbeat tone. We introduced Palmer Harding for spring 18 and I loved the show today - the striped shirts were as strong as ever but I really liked the way they had moved into more fluid fabrics - the silky rust colours were my favourite.

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Phar rtw fw18 0183

Palmer Harding autumn 18

Have any colours, trends or themes emerged strongly from the shows so far?

It’s another season where the coat and the dress will be be the key staples, but they will be joined by killer tailoring, often clashed with sportswear references.

In contrast a historical, folkloric, floral feel has come through in a few collections, with washed and faded colours adding to this antique feel.

A strong hit of primary colours also comes through in many collections.

Are there any shows you’re particularly looking forward to over the rest of the week?

I look forward to Roksanda every season for her elegant and directional take on femininity, and Christopher Kane inevitably has a great twist to his shows which is always a highlight.

How was New York Fashion Week?

New York was super stylish as ever, but felt somewhat quiet. The highlight show of the week was Calvin Klein. Once we had waded through the ankle deep popcorn to our seats, the scene was like a dystopian ski chalet. The styling created a feeling of protection and survival but within the layers there were highly wearable and even pretty floral prairie skirts and strong outerwear pieces.


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