Luxury department store Harvey Nichol’s head of womenswear Hazel Catterall on her top womenswear shows and emerging catwalk trends from the second day of London Fashion Week.
Hazel catterall head of womenswear portrait 1
Why do you attend London Fashion Week?
London is home so it’s always great to see the talent that is coming through – who is new and aspiring – and for those more established brands to see how they’re developing and changing. London Fashion Week is always so exhilarating, there is an excitement and an edge here that you don’t find at other fashion weeks. Here we look for the creativity and inventiveness that London is known for, it’s always a great contrast following the slick, polished feel of New York.
How was today at London Fashion Week?
Today felt busy and there was a buzz at the shows but at the same moment it felt a little subdued, with everyone a little unsettled after yesterday’s events. However, the key people are here and there aren’t the same question marks around London that seemed to surround New York Fashion Week this season. Everyone recognises the importance of London as a creative source rather than a roll call of blockbuster names, and that gives the freedom to experiment and to play a little more with fun themes and stories.
What collections stood out today?
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The standout show for me today was JW Anderson. There was a beautiful feminine and naturalistic quality to the collection, a soft edge which hasn’t always been apparent previously. Colours were plentiful but calm, often in blocks or stripes. Textures were also key, contrasting soft knits with patent edging at hems and cuffs. Natural linens and sweats and even monogrammed tea-towels added to the gentle domesticated feel. Accessories have grown beyond the now ubiquitous piercing bag in to soft totes and shoppers.
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Mother of Pearl’s [autumn 17 see-now, buy-now collection] was another highlight, I loved the stand-out outerwear with quilted floral pieces, as well as the exaggerated silhouettes. The brand’s signature ruffles and flare sleeves cinched with pearl detailing were again must-have pieces.
There were some great directional looks at Fashion East – I loved the texture clashes with pleats and raw frayed edges and exaggerated cuffed hems at Asai, as well as the patents contrasted with lots of barely-there sheer textures and clear vinyl layering from Supriya Lele.
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House of Holland was fun as ever with wavy stripes in rainbow and clashing colours, but muted and toned down a little for a more feminine feel. A cute hippy, beachy feel.
Finally, it was great to see the play on the Burberry check [for its autumn 17 see-now buy-now collection], which was a huge focus of the show. As always, the music was fantastic.
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I’m excited to see what tomorrow will bring with some of my personal favourites showing such as Preen and Peter Pilotto.
What trends have stood out so far this season?
Key colours that have stood out for me so far have to be pinks, deep reds and burgundy, which I’ve seen so far in almost every show, as well as soft khakis and sage greens.
I’ve also noticed a lot of stripes - both straight and wavy. Floral prints still remain on many of the catwalks, plus there is an emergence of patents and vinyl’s contrasting with softer more natural woven textures such as linens and cottons.