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London Fashion Week Men's buyer diary: day one

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On the first day of the spring 20 edition of London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM), Matchesfashion.com’s head of menswear, Damien Paul shares his top shows from the day.

London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) kicked off the spring 20 buying season with a first full day brimming with young talent, creativity and sartorial variety.

Edward crutchley ss20 0051

Edward Crutchley

The day was bookended by two of the city’s home-grown daring creatives. Art School opened LFWM with a glittering, ethereally glam collection while Saturday was rounded off by London favourite Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, which hosted a typically theatrical show in the illustrious surroundings of the British Library.

Dramatic, eye-catching streetwear retained its popularity with designers – with Liam Hodges, Iceberg and Jordan Luca showcasing an array of urban inspired styles.

Other designers provided a more elegant aesthetic. The new E.Tautz collection brimmed with relaxed tailoring, billowing shirting and sophisticated sorbet tones, and Edward Crutchley offered up a dose of 1990s nostalgia, with fabrics the designer described as having a “formal flimsiness”. Qasimi’s spring 20 styles were similarly elegant, with hints to the continuing trend for utility details.

Alongside more established names on the LFWM schedule, fresh talents Ahluwalia Studio, St Henri and Eastwood Danso showed strong presentations, proving London’s talent is as vibrant as ever.

Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matchesfashion.com, shares his highlights from the day.

Damien paul head of menswear matches

Damien Paul

Why do you attend LFWM?

Firstly, London kicks the season off and it’s nice to be on home territory. I always attend as it’s a fantastic mix of new talent and creativity and it balances emerging and established names.

We have long standing partnerships with Craig Green, Oliver Spencer and Martine Rose, but it’s also a good opportunity to see how all London based designers are developing. It’s also a great opportunity to reconnect with everyone across the industry.

How was today at LFWM?

As the day progressed it got busier and busier. We had a full-on gig at Nicholas Daley, which was brilliant, and then it seemed the whole world had turned up to see the ultimate club kid Charles Jeffrey embrace the beautifully refined British Library.

Which collections stood out?

E tautz ss20 0023

E Tautz

I loved Nicholas Daley’s collection and it benefited from being worn by real men and musicians. I thought Art School refined its vision and in doing so made for an excellent start to the day. I’m also looking forward to seeing the rich palette and fabrics shown at E Tautz collection again in the showroom.

Are there any trends or must buys emerging from the collections so far?

We’re only on day one but the collections that stood out felt elevated - E Tautz, Edward Crutchley and Art School.

What are you looking forward to in the LFWM shows this season?

Martine Rose, as she always creates an individual and unique catwalk experience. Craig Green, to see how he develops his house signatures, and I’m looking forward to seeing Bianca Saunders as we’ve worked closely with her over the last six months.

Are there any designers you are looking forward to seeing in the international menswear collections?

I always look forward to Marni in Milan and Loewe in Paris. Also, Boramy Viguier in Paris as we’ve worked quite closely with him and the first Paris shows from New Yorkers Bode and Sies Marjan.

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