On the final day of the spring 20 edition of LFWM, Browns’ senior buyer Thom Scherdel discusses his stand out shows and designers to watch.
The pouring rain did not put off the fashion week crowds on Monday (10 June), as the last day of London Fashion Week Men’s promised some of the season’s buzziest collections, and the designers did not disappoint. Both Craig Green and Samuel Ross and A Cold Wall delivered strong, evolved and elavated collections that successfully distilled both brand’s signatures and unique selling points into clothes that were both creative and commercially appealing.
Alongside up and coming names Paria Farzaneh and Bethany Williams, the final day of the spring 20 edition of LFWM showed what London does best - produce, nurture and support the best talent, and allow it to blossom into successful businesses.
As part of our on going buyer diary season, we spoke to Thom Sherdel, senior buyer at Browns, about his experience at LFWM this season:
Why do you attend LFWM?
It’s a must attend event in terms of support for our home grown talent. We buy into a lot of the [British Fashion Council supported] Newgen brands and because of our rich history in being a launch platform for emerging brands it’s important for us to continue that legacy. It’s always nice to start at home before we go on the road to see what the world has to offer.
What are you looking for in the LFWM shows this season?
We’re always looking for brands that can seamlessly pair creative concepts and commerciality. First and foremost, they need to excite the audience at the shows – that’s the first step. Once buzz is created, we need to then deliver that concept in a commercial way in the showroom. It’s one thing to get people to talk about you on social media, it’s a much bigger thing to get that to translate into people spending their money to wear it.
How was day three at LFWM?
Being the last day of the schedule the conversations on the ground are based on levels of tiredness but the calibre of the brands showing has purposefully offset that. Craig Green had people queuing round the block in the rain this morning which shows you important he is to London.
Which collections stood out this LFWM?
I really thought Fashion East took a huge step forward, we saw evolution and maturity in those young designers; I think it was the strongest I’ve seen it in some time. It feels like the various incubator initiatives that are in place are really coming to fruition. What we saw were really unique creative approaches to a collection that really wanted to get picked up by some of the bigger stores. I think Samuel Ross showed a well-rounded and multi-faceted collection with killer accessories at A Cold Wall; all aspects engrained with his brand’s now recognisable DNA. My favourite, as always, was Paria Farzaneh – the unique nature of her collection’s is stunning. She simultaneously innovates and remains constantly true to herself; while touching on the issues we face in our modern world and the conflict she has with herself about where she belongs within it. She is a truly special talent.
Are there any designers you are looking forward to seeing in the international menswear collections?
Alyx feels like it has everything it needs to push on to the next level and really cement itself within the super brands world. Aside from that, I’m looking forward to the usual suspects of Dior, Off White, and my personal favourites Versace and Prada.