On day two of London Fashion Week Men’s (LFWM) spring 20 edition, Selfridges buying manager for menswear Jack Cassidy shares his take on the shows so far.
After a busy day one, a sunny Sunday at LFWM saw fashion heavyweights and new names alike share the spotlight.
Alexander McQueen made an elegant return to the London schedule, showcasing an opulent collection of sleek, dramatic suiting, with crisp cuts accented with glistening jewels and a rich colour palette.
The 25th anniversary show from Chalayan was another highlight from the day, with a typically sophisticated offer of relaced tailoring in muted jersey and wool textures.
The perennially popular Oliver Spencer was a hit with the fashion week crowds. His relaxed, eastern inspired spring 20 show was staged in a street food market - with vegan prawns, dumplings and margaritas served up alongside the collection.
Martine Rose closed the day, retaining her status as one of the hottest tickets on the LFWM schedule.
Collections from the likes of Per Götesson, Stefan Cooke and Studio Alch represented the young design contingent - and presentations from German brand T/Sehne and Bianca Saunders both displayed a fresh take on London’s signature creativity.
Fashion East remains a highlight on the LFWM schedule thanks to its support of talented newcomers and this season was no exception. Saul Nash, whose models performed an emotive dance routine while dressed in the brand’s sleek, 1980s inspired performance-wear, particularly shone.
Jack Cassidy, buying manager for menswear at department store Selfridges shares his top shows and trends from LFWM so far:
What are you looking for in the LFWM shows this season?
A clear vision, a focus on the garment and not just styling, unexpected combinations, fabrics, colours, references. Well made construction and execution and also important.
How was today at LFWM and LFWM so far?
I think since LFWM has been based out of the Old Truman Brewery [autumn 19 was LFWM’s first time at the location] there has been a great energy. The usual bustle of Brick Lane combines with the energy of LFWM
Which collections stood out today?
Fashion East is always a highlight. I thought that each of the designers showed a clear vision and identity. From Saul Nash’s powerful performance and ergonomic technical designs, to Robyn Lynch’s strong evolution of her colour blocked looks in to a fresh new palette and Mowalola’s energy filled evolution of her bold, colourful and confident aesthetic. I particularly liked the neon green cow printed pieces.
The Alexander McQueen presentation also included some beautifully elevated tailoring and evening wear pieces
I thought Stefan Cooke’s first show post-Fashion East showed how strong they are at textile developments and was their most accomplished show yet
Are there any trends or must buys emerging from the collections so far?
Colour and fun. The shows that have stood out have all embraced colour and pattern.
Are there any designers you are looking forward to seeing in the international menswear collections?
In Milan: Versace, Fendi and Marni. In Paris: Comme des Garçons, Rick Owens and Raf Simons.